Wreck
Liverpool, Merseyside
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Brought back to life from a state of dereliction in 2017 by Gary Usher's bold, creative ambition – including a crowdfunding campaign and life as a pop-up – handsome 60 Seel Street is now living its best life as Wreck. Like the rest of Usher's family of thriving north-western bistros (Sticky Walnut et al), it's all about excellent ingredients creatively handled and priced so as not to scare the horses – and don't go thinking it's all about fish. The 'bistro menu' (available lunchtimes and early evenings) is a particularly appetising three-course affair, while the main menu is a step up; although the owners describe their food as 'simple', it's true to say that 'simple' is a relative word. Take an honest gazpacho starter, for example, with smoked bacon and toasted nori, plus roast garlic and parsley toasts – this is inventive stuff with flavour at the heart of everything. Salt-baked pineapple and salsa verde are an ideal foil to pig's head croquettes, while mains might bring cod fillet with taramasalata and smoked apple/dill dressing. Truffle and Parmesan chips luxe out a braised featherblade of beef, and there are regular daily specials to look out for as well. Desserts are a populist bunch ranging from strawberry pavlova (with melon and mint sorbet) to an exotic île flottante with rum custard and peanut brittle. There's also some good news for Liverpool's early birds: Wreckfish now serves breakfast at weekends and bank holiday Mondays (9am-11.30am); book a table or just turn up on spec. The wine list opens with house Spanish at £23, and everything is available by the glass; there are also half a dozen bottled beers covering Leeds to Bavaria.
