Wiveton Bell
Wiveton, Norfolk
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A mile or so inland from the coast, Wiveton is a peaceful village, though it's been put firmly on the map by the popularity of this little country pub (now part of the East Anglian 'Chestnut Collection'). The interior been modernised in bare-boards style and enlarged with a smart taupe-walled conservatory dining room; there's also an attractive marquee at the back ('with a wedding-reception feel to it') and outside tables for drinks at the front, overlooking the village church. The menu has its finger on the Norfolk pulse, with local ‘food heroes’ duly name-checked. There are plenty of interesting options for vegetarians, and a fairly priced set menu too. Binham Blue soufflé made a fine start to a test meal: light, moist and cheesy, with crunch provided by a candied walnut on top and lightly pickled celery. From the carte, breadcrumbed cod cheeks arrived in a creamy curry sauce. To follow, pan-fried stone bass with Cromer crab 'dauphine' and vanilla velouté was outshone by a beautifully tender oblong of stout-glazed beef short rib, well-matched with charred baby gem and a king oyster mushroom. Puddings are definitely for the sweet-toothed, with complex offerings including lemon and lavender posset with white chocolate, pistachio, lemon curd, raspberry and Champagne sorbet. Presentation throughout is beautiful, and service is congenial. To drink, there’s a choice of four local ales at the bar, while the set menu comes with suggested pairings from a varied wine list that’s arranged by style.
