Wild Artichokes
Kingsbridge , Devon
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Best Local Restaurant: South West
Those in search of singular restaurant destinations will want to add Wild Artichokes to their list. It's down a potholed dirt track among the dilapidated cars of motor mechanics in the backstreets of Kingsbridge, only the helpful signboards insisting that there really is a restaurant this way. And what a restaurant. Samantha Miller and chef Jane Baxter have created one of Devon's most exciting venues, a single-sitting banquet of four courses (the first an array of seven appetisers) that works to a loosely Italian template, but not so devoutly as to preclude productive offshoots. A large kitchen counter obtrudes into the confined space, where diners share one of two communal tables, eight to a board, and dishes are passed around for all to help themselves. Highlights from our visit were legion: baked crab of stunning anise-scented intensity; a set of fritters with various fillings (splots of mashed anchovy wrapped in sage leaves, for example); fried squid with almonds and capers; smoked tarama sprinkled with bottarga – and that's just for starters. An intermediate course brought on a richly comforting bowl of vincisgrassi, the Marchese version of lasagne made with minced veal and porcini. Main course was ruby-red rare tuna, crusted successfully in courgette, coriander and mint, served with fennel and spinach gratin plus a bake of Italian white beans and asparagus. A trio of desserts awaits at the finishing-line, perhaps a glorious baked custard with rhubarb and strawberries, baked cheesecake with orange ice cream, and a delectable, fragile apricot frangipane tart. This is cooking that looks homely, but is judged to the finest detail with seductive flavours and luxurious textures. Everything is served with warmth and wit, ensuring that the merriest of times is had by all. A single-page list of decent wines accompanies the food, although – for the time being – only two Sicilian house pours and a Prosecco are available by the small glass.
