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Tiella

London, Islington - Italian - Restaurant - ££

Zesty Pugliese cooking in an Islington boozer

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Chef Dara Klein described her Tiella pop-up operation at the Compton Arms in Islington as something like 'a trattoria in an old pub'. This is very much where we are with London dining just now, although we're duty-bound to point out that Dara's residency here will end on 20 December 2024. Move fast, if you know what's good for you. The shallow cushioned seating in the teensy dining area isn't really to our liking, but the menu rides to the rescue. Nibble on some Marcona almonds or sourdough bread anointed with brashly peppery Pugliese olive oil (chef's mother is from Puglia) to kick-start the buds. Small plates then come into play, with such readily appealing propositions as ricotta dressed in Calabrian chilli and honey (needs some of that bread), mussels with datterini tomatoes and basil, or mild white anchovies in saor (the traditional Veneto vinegar dressing). Pasta is sturdily dependable, perhaps for tagliatelle with pesto and green beans, while gnocchetti sardi are given an umam...

Chef Dara Klein described her Tiella pop-up operation at the Compton Arms in Islington as something like 'a trattoria in an old pub'. This is very much where we are with London dining just now, although we're duty-bound to point out that Dara's residency here will end on 20 December 2024. Move fast, if you know what's good for you.

The shallow cushioned seating in the teensy dining area isn't really to our liking, but the menu rides to the rescue. Nibble on some Marcona almonds or sourdough bread anointed with brashly peppery Pugliese olive oil (chef's mother is from Puglia) to kick-start the buds. Small plates then come into play, with such readily appealing propositions as ricotta dressed in Calabrian chilli and honey (needs some of that bread), mussels with datterini tomatoes and basil, or mild white anchovies in saor (the traditional Veneto vinegar dressing).

Pasta is sturdily dependable, perhaps for tagliatelle with pesto and green beans, while gnocchetti sardi are given an umami hit with stracciatella and tomato. If you're hankering for something more like a conventional main course, look to chicken milanese with fennel, celery and apple – perhaps with a side of fried potatoes and aïoli. A summer finisher to write home about saw strawberries used to garnish a delightful bay-leaf panna cotta in bittersweet Fernet Branca syrup, or there could be torta caprese (flourless chocolate and almond cake) with crème fraîche. A small slate of Italian wines by the glass (from £6) is worth exploring.

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VENUE DETAILS

The Compton Arms, 4 Compton Avenue
Islington
N1 2XDGB

020 7354 8473

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar

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