Thomas by Tom Simmons
Cardiff, Glamorgan
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Since opening his self-named venue, chef Tom Simmons has certainly received the stamp of approval from appreciative visitors: 'upmarket but relaxed, this really was an utterly stunning meal,' cheered one satisfied customer. He has also brought a certain Gallic charm to one of Cardiff’s most attractive Victorian suburbs. The interior combines mid-century cool and a soupçon of 1930s Paris with its parquet floors, glowing wall lights and deep green and red walls. It feels refined but not stuffy, and the menu follows suit, offering relaxed nibbles and sides alongside the regular three courses. These extras are not to be missed: mushroom croquettes, (bite-size umami explosions topped with a dusting of Parmesan and truffle) were ‘one of the best things I’ve ever tasted’, while tea-brined chicken in a 'light as air' crispy crumb topped with zingy lime mayo took fried chicken to previously unscaled heights. Flavours are intense and seasoning is perfect, as in a silken asparagus velouté – the very essence of springtime – served with a supersized gougère filled with molten Black Bomber Cheddar. A main course of beef fillet, glossy with caramelised jus, was accompanied by a dainty but big-booted beef rib tartlet topped with truffle/mushroom purée and shaved, truffle-dusted mushrooms. Sides of mac and cheese (luxuriantly cheesy and mushroom-topped) and the freshest BBQ spring cabbage with celeriac purée and wild garlic oil all hit the mark, with special mention going to the extraordinary chips made by compressing layers of potato with garlic and Parmesan, then chopping and deep-frying the result. As with everything else here, the result is a dazzlingly elevated version of a favourite dish. The same could be said of a dessert involving moist, citrussy treacle tart with the finest pastry case and a melting scoop of Earl Grey ice cream: this is classic food taken out of its comfort zone and made into the best version of itself. The international wine list covers all bases and price points, with plenty by the glass.
