The Walrus
Shrewsbury, Shropshire
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'Know your market' is sage advice. At the Walrus, dubbed by one fan as 'the absolute best kind of local restaurant', you really do feel chef/owner Ben Hall is cooking specifically to delight a hometown audience. Since we reviewed The Walrus at the end of May 2022, the venue has moved from Roushill to new premises in Lower Claremont Bank, but nothing else has changed. The cooking is solid, generous and enjoyable, the output focused entirely on 'deliciousness'. Creativity is measured rather than unrestrained: cured sea bream, diced and mixed into a well-judged ponzu sauce, is teamed with diced cucumber, tomato, trout roe, seaweed, lime and sesame, and topped with two slices of barely blowtorched scallop and ponzu gel to make a pleasing light opener. Shropshire guinea-fowl egg, perfectly runny within its crispy crumb, receives luxe additions including Ibérico ham, grilled white asparagus, pickled girolles and roasted hazelnuts, while pink slices of lamb loin are paired with a crisp lamb croquette, green asparagus, pine nut purée and subtle, smoky maitake mushrooms. As a finale, there might be a spin on carrot cake with aerated white chocolate, whipped cream cheese and macerated raisins. Service continues to be warm and welcoming, pricing keen, and the compact wine list (from £22) matches the approachable vibe.
