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The Walrus

Shropshire, Shrewsbury - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

'Know your market' is sage advice. At the Walrus, dubbed by one fan as 'the absolute best kind of local restaurant', you really do feel chef/owner Ben Hall is cooking specifically to delight a hometown audience. Since our previous review (at the end of May 2022), the venue has moved from Roushill to new premises in Lower Claremont Bank, but we are happy to report that nothing else has changed. The cooking is solid, generous and enjoyable, the output focused entirely on 'deliciousness'. Creativity is measured rather than unrestrained: cured sea bream, diced and mixed into a well-judged ponzu sauce, is teamed with diced cucumber, tomato, trout roe, seaweed, lime and sesame, and topped with two slices of barely blowtorched scallop and ponzu gel to make a pleasing light opener. Shropshire guinea-fowl egg, perfectly runny within its crispy crumb, receives luxe additions including Ibérico ham, grilled white asparagus, pickled girolles and roasted hazelnuts, while pink slices of lamb l...

'Know your market' is sage advice. At the Walrus, dubbed by one fan as 'the absolute best kind of local restaurant', you really do feel chef/owner Ben Hall is cooking specifically to delight a hometown audience. Since our previous review (at the end of May 2022), the venue has moved from Roushill to new premises in Lower Claremont Bank, but we are happy to report that nothing else has changed. The cooking is solid, generous and enjoyable, the output focused entirely on 'deliciousness'. Creativity is measured rather than unrestrained: cured sea bream, diced and mixed into a well-judged ponzu sauce, is teamed with diced cucumber, tomato, trout roe, seaweed, lime and sesame, and topped with two slices of barely blowtorched scallop and ponzu gel to make a pleasing light opener. Shropshire guinea-fowl egg, perfectly runny within its crispy crumb, receives luxe additions including Ibérico ham, grilled white asparagus, pickled girolles and roasted hazelnuts, while pink slices of lamb loin are paired with a crisp lamb croquette, green asparagus, pine nut purée and subtle, smoky maitake mushrooms. As a finale, there might be a spin on carrot cake with aerated white chocolate, whipped cream cheese and macerated raisins. Service continues to be warm and welcoming, pricing is keen, and the compact wine list matches the approachable vibe.

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VENUE DETAILS

2 Lower Claremont Bank
Shrewsbury
Shropshire
SY1 1RT GB

01743 240005

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