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The Seahorse

Devon, Dartmouth - Seafood - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

The Tonks family flagship is moored on the Dartmouth quayside, with co-owner Mitch's son Ben at the helm. It has always radiated a balmy sense of the Mediterranean, partly for the sunny good cheer with which the place is run, and partly for the orientation of the cooking. If the best preparations of the freshest fish are ever the simplest, the menus here offer an object-lesson in what is still a culinary discipline. Torbay scallops, charcoal-roasted and dressed with a lick of white port and garlic, are a favoured way to start. Wine performs its ancestral role in seasoning and enriching the dishes: fillet of cod is cooked in a paper packet, sauced with Lugana, and spiked with pepperoncini chillies, capers and basil, while Albariño is used as a curing medium for red mullet with pink peppercorns and grapes. A whomping £48 buys a whole Dover sole cooked on the bone, with nothing more complex than a meunière dressing. There are some steaks of beef or veal if you're not q...

The Tonks family flagship is moored on the Dartmouth quayside, with co-owner Mitch's son Ben at the helm. It has always radiated a balmy sense of the Mediterranean, partly for the sunny good cheer with which the place is run, and partly for the orientation of the cooking. If the best preparations of the freshest fish are ever the simplest, the menus here offer an object-lesson in what is still a culinary discipline. Torbay scallops, charcoal-roasted and dressed with a lick of white port and garlic, are a favoured way to start. Wine performs its ancestral role in seasoning and enriching the dishes: fillet of cod is cooked in a paper packet, sauced with Lugana, and spiked with pepperoncini chillies, capers and basil, while Albariño is used as a curing medium for red mullet with pink peppercorns and grapes. A whomping £48 buys a whole Dover sole cooked on the bone, with nothing more complex than a meunière dressing. There are some steaks of beef or veal if you're not quite in the maritime mood, and desserts maintain the theme of elegant simplicity – perhaps salted honey ice cream dressed in Pedro Ximénez and sultanas or an almond tart with rum cream. An excellent Eurocentric wine list does justice to the food, with wines by the small glass from £6.75.

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VENUE DETAILS

5 South Embankment
Dartmouth
Devon
TQ6 9BHGB

01803 835147

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access

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