The Portrait by Richard Corrigan
Trafalgar Square, London
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After years in the doldrums, the restaurant at the top of the revamped National Portrait Gallery is now as sharply metro as can be – thanks to savvy chef Richard Corrigan, whose name is nailed firmly above the door. There’s a wow factor to the 190-degree rooftop-skimming view that takes in such iconic London landmarks as the Eye and Nelson’s Column, and it’s a wonderful place to pass a lunchtime – a comfortable spot with good service (led by the amiable Jon Spiteri), lots of people to observe, and some fabulous paintings to take in on the way up and down. Corrigan knows all about seasonality and sourcing, so it’s no surprise that the regularly changing menu homes in on solid modern classics resonating with ingredient-driven rusticity – a winning formula judging by the crowded dining room when we visited. The kitchen concentrates its efforts on manageable, affordable items, ranging from an excellent salad of beetroot, red onion, sheep’s yoghurt and hazelnuts to superb cauliflower conchigliette (homemade) with Stilton, pickled pear and walnut or a flavoursome, tender guinea fowl breast given heft by 'nduja stuffed under the skin. It’s all backed up by well-tried desserts – say a light marmalade steamed pudding with crème anglaise or a superb Syrian saffron rice pudding with pistachio and bergamot. The set menu is particularly good value, although it’s also possible to order just one dish (portions are generous) and a glass of wine. To drink, there are some interesting-looking cocktails and a short roster of popular, mainly European house wines, priced by the 125ml glass, carafe of bottle. Otherwise, there’s a slightly broader sweep to the full list, with representatives from the Old and New World (from £35).
