The Plough
Bolnhurst, Bedfordshire
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Deep in arable farming country some six miles north of Bedford, this 15th-century hostelry turned restaurant still wears its history well. Notice the rugged stone walls, the tiny windows and the ancient, crooked beams. There are real ales at the bar (and some comfy armchairs to sit in) but just about everybody is here to eat – the kitchen pass is visible through glass behind the optics. Martin and Jayne Lee have been at the helm since 2005 and continue to serve up inviting, full-flavoured dishes based on ingredients from near and far. Prime cuts of Irish Hereford beef and day-boat fish shipped in from Cornwall are shown the Josper grill for those who want to keep it simple. Otherwise, fixed-price ‘Furrow’ and ‘Seam’ menus (ploughing terms, in case you wondered) abound with generous ideas presented without too much flimflam. Meaty offerings could bring anything from venison carpaccio with pickled beetroot to a plateful of roast veal loin, butter-roasted potato, peas, wild mushrooms and truffle. If seafood is your preference, consider cod fillet with a salt cod and caper croquette, marrowfat pea purée and parsley-flecked hollandaise – two reworked pub classics for the price of one. After that, perhaps a slice of glazed lemon tart or peach Melba soufflé with raspberry sauce. The Plough has another ace up its sleeve in the form of an enterprising wine list offering classy, eclectic bottles at quaffable prices – including 15 cracking recommendations by the glass or carafe.
