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The Pearl

Greater Manchester, Prestwich - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Popular local ‘dining room’ known for its confident cooking and ethical sourcing

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

There's no doubt that suburban Prestwich is on the up, and an influx of young professionals has brought forth a number of independent eating places. Low-key sophistication is the hallmark of the new demographic and probably accounts for the enthusiastic crowdfunding that helped kick-start this neighbourhood restaurant. A bright blue exterior and half curtains create a jaunty, bistro air, while a Tuscan wine hatch opens onto a small community garden restored from a ‘tatty piece of land'. Inside, the Pearl's green wooden walls, high bar, bentwood chairs and antique pump handles add an unpretentious, feel-good vibe. At night, candles bring a calm, romantic feel to the small room. Chef Iain Mark Thomas has excellent Mancunian credentials (ex-Edinburgh Castle et al) and sensibly keeps the weekly changing menu tight and manageable. The ethos is seasonal and sustainable, and the cooking consistently polished. Modern (and not so modern) classics are given resonance with quality local in...

There's no doubt that suburban Prestwich is on the up, and an influx of young professionals has brought forth a number of independent eating places. Low-key sophistication is the hallmark of the new demographic and probably accounts for the enthusiastic crowdfunding that helped kick-start this neighbourhood restaurant. A bright blue exterior and half curtains create a jaunty, bistro air, while a Tuscan wine hatch opens onto a small community garden restored from a ‘tatty piece of land'. Inside, the Pearl's green wooden walls, high bar, bentwood chairs and antique pump handles add an unpretentious, feel-good vibe. At night, candles bring a calm, romantic feel to the small room.

Chef Iain Mark Thomas has excellent Mancunian credentials (ex-Edinburgh Castle et al) and sensibly keeps the weekly changing menu tight and manageable. The ethos is seasonal and sustainable, and the cooking consistently polished. Modern (and not so modern) classics are given resonance with quality local ingredients: Prestwich gin-cured smoked salmon impressed with its tender, refined texture, while meaty mushrooms from Polyspore (an urban farm in Altrincham) were perfectly breaded, deep-fried and offset by a roasted wild garlic purée. Not everything is strictly local or regional but the kitchen still sources to exacting standards: an elegant dish of green and white asparagus was served with sweet little broad beans, potatoes, microherbs and a Cacklebean fried egg with neon yolk.

The kitchen's chips have become a signature – labour-intense dominoes fashioned from thinly sliced potato layered with braised ox cheek, compressed, deep-fried, then spiked with blobs of dill-pickle essence and French’s mustard. 'Cull ewe' was rich, savoury and succulent – even if not everyone appreciated the unctuous amount of fat.

To conclude, a retro custard trifle was smooth and soothing, while Arctic roll, balanced precariously on its side and crowned with a blob of raspberry sorbet, also struck a nostalgic chord. The list of beers, wines and cocktails is short but well curated.

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VENUE DETAILS

425 Bury New Road
Prestwich
Greater Manchester
M25 1AFGB

0161 526 3667

View opening times

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OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Credit card required

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