The Ollerod
Beaminster, Dorset
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*Following a substantial revamp, the Ollerod's menu now promises a crowd-pleasing line-up of more approachable and affordable dishes. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
A lot has happened of late at this ancient, refurbished hotel a few hundred yards from Beaminster town centre. The restaurant has been moved to the old part of the building for added intimacy, a standalone bar (with its own 'small plates' menu) has been added, and there's a new chef at the stoves. ‘What’s here is good,’ thought one visitor, and there is much to delight – and satisfy – on the short carte. To start, ‘a clever spin’ on Caesar salad brings together a slice of ‘perfect’ chicken terrine and an exceptional dressing with lots of fluffy, grated Parmesan, while a truffle and cep arancino arrives on a stack of fried shimeji mushrooms with a purée made from pickled ceps topped with raw slices of button mushroom. To follow, guinea fowl is subjected to elaborate treatment: the breast rolled into a kind of cylinder with wonderfully crisp skin and juicy flesh; the braised legs put into a cottage pie, teamed with semi-burnt hispi cabbage overflowing with buttery, bitter-sweet juice – all accompanied by a very decent artichoke and truffle purée and a pleasing chicken-based sauce. Dessert classics also receive some intricate adornments: crème brûlée, for example, arrives crowned with spiced bread crumble, apple gel, caramel apple balls, and cinnamon ice cream crisscrossed with lines of caramel. Two dozen workmanlike wines (with a fair few available by the glass) start at a very reasonable £23.
