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The Old Fire Engine House

Cambridgeshire, Ely - English - Restaurant - ££

Bastion of traditional English cooking in a cathedral town

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

The term ‘old fashioned’, applied to our native cuisine, is rarely a compliment. But this cherished Ely stalwart, launched in 1968 and a regular Guide listing for more than three decades back in the day, is a reminder that decent English cooking did exist before Gary Rhodes and his cohorts arrived on the scene. More than 50 years down the line, original owner Ann Jarman still runs the show (with plenty of family support), and the setting is everything you might expect: a handsomely proportioned Georgian building a mere mitre’s throw from the cathedral, with weathered floorboards, a log fire in the bar, a sedate dining room with windows overlooking a lush walled garden, and artworks for sale throughout (there’s a gallery/sitting room on the first floor). Kindly, if leisurely, service and a host of appreciative regulars also make for a relaxing experience. The menu changes each day and the food is as reassuringly comforting as your favourite armchair. Local...

The term ‘old fashioned’, applied to our native cuisine, is rarely a compliment. But this cherished Ely stalwart, launched in 1968 and a regular Guide listing for more than three decades back in the day, is a reminder that decent English cooking did exist before Gary Rhodes and his cohorts arrived on the scene.

More than 50 years down the line, original owner Ann Jarman still runs the show (with plenty of family support), and the setting is everything you might expect: a handsomely proportioned Georgian building a mere mitre’s throw from the cathedral, with weathered floorboards, a log fire in the bar, a sedate dining room with windows overlooking a lush walled garden, and artworks for sale throughout (there’s a gallery/sitting room on the first floor). Kindly, if leisurely, service and a host of appreciative regulars also make for a relaxing experience.

The menu changes each day and the food is as reassuringly comforting as your favourite armchair. Local ingredients feature regularly: perhaps Norfolk crab, game or Cambridgeshire honey (with the afternoon teas). Mitton of pork – a full-flavoured, garlicky meat loaf – got our lunch off to a flying start, matching well with a sweet-pickled red onion relish. To follow, whole roast pigeon in white wine was tender if a tad dry, while a casserole of slow-cooked shoulder of lamb was a plateful of fall-off-the-bone gratification. Trenchermen (and women) take note: the offer of ‘seconds’ is an esteemed tradition here.

Unabashed generosity also characterised the portions of accompanying vegetables (puréed swede, shredded leeks and cabbage, cauliflower cheese, all on a separate plate), ditto a large slice of tangy lemon tart with fresh strawberries and (of course) piped cream. The 100-strong wine list offers a moderately priced selection from established, mostly French, regions.

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VENUE DETAILS

25 St Mary's Street
Ely
Cambridgeshire
CB7 4ERGB

01353 662582

OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Parking, Family friendly

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