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The Old Crown Coaching Inn

Oxfordshire, Faringdon - Anglo-European - Restaurant - £££

Contemporary reboot of a historic coaching inn

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Lording over a small square in the Oxfordshire market town of Faringdon, this gentrified 16th-century inn has been radically smartened up by its current owners and now offers all manner of possibilities to travellers and diners alike. There’s an elegant ballroom bedecked with modern art and wrought iron chandeliers, as well as a glitzy wine/cocktail bar, although the most significant changes have happened in the kitchen, with Ritz-trained Sam Squires helming an operation full of vim, vigour and imagination. Starters might strike a floral note with the likes of beetroot tartare, dill oil, raspberry and nasturtium or offer something more punchy in the form of old-school game pie with piccalilli and fresh herbs. Meaty options predominate among the mains: beef cheek and onion suet pie with creamed savoy cabbage and red wine jus pleases the traditionalists, or you could opt for a wonderfully tender duck breast atop potato rösti served alongside carrot and orange puré...

Lording over a small square in the Oxfordshire market town of Faringdon, this gentrified 16th-century inn has been radically smartened up by its current owners and now offers all manner of possibilities to travellers and diners alike. There’s an elegant ballroom bedecked with modern art and wrought iron chandeliers, as well as a glitzy wine/cocktail bar, although the most significant changes have happened in the kitchen, with Ritz-trained Sam Squires helming an operation full of vim, vigour and imagination.

Starters might strike a floral note with the likes of beetroot tartare, dill oil, raspberry and nasturtium or offer something more punchy in the form of old-school game pie with piccalilli and fresh herbs. Meaty options predominate among the mains: beef cheek and onion suet pie with creamed savoy cabbage and red wine jus pleases the traditionalists, or you could opt for a wonderfully tender duck breast atop potato rösti served alongside carrot and orange purée and sherry jus. Fish fans have battered cod as well as more upscale ideas such as a bouillabaisse riff involving Atlantic cod, mussels, clams, herb crumb, rouille and saffron potato.  

You’ll need to book well ahead for the more elaborate tasting menu (Wed-Sat evenings only), but if you miss this chance you can at least console yourself with well-considered desserts such as blackberry and yoghurt baked Alaska or salted dark chocolate délice with orange and cardamom ice cream. Sunday lunches also get top marks. 

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VENUE DETAILS

25 Market Place
Faringdon
Oxfordshire
SN7 7HUGB

01367 242744

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly, Dog friendly

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