The Lighthouse
Boylestone, Derbyshire
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First, take a moment to appreciate the irony of a place in landlocked Derbyshire having a lighthouse. In this case, though, we are hardly being warned away, but drawn in, by the shining beacon of a smart contemporary pub dedicated to seasonally informed Peak District produce in elegantly appointed, beamed and raftered surroundings. Tasting menus are the order of the day, and the kitchen rocks and rolls with imaginative energy, offering moments of discovery in every dish. Lobster bisque with croustade of ox heart is a statement snack, ahead of the obligatory but exemplary sourdough with whipped garlic butter. Japanese umami has become an indispensable flavour dimension to many a modern British dish, appearing here in the blond miso and koshihikari rice that accompany monkfish tail. The relaxing luxe of a morel mushroom stuffed with truffled chicken mousse then acts as smooth stepping stone to loin and shoulder of Peak lamb with smoked Jersey Royals and black garlic. A couple of desserts bring on preserved rhubarb with black-pepper ice cream, and then a pine-scented chocolate yoghurt creation. Wolfing down a miso fudge pastille with coffee will remind you why you urgently need to get another booking nailed in. With superlative cheeses and a drinks flight full of ingenuity – from citrus- and spice-infused sake to rot-laden Hungarian Tokaji – the Lighthouse sheds radiance all around.
