The Herring
Mawgan Porth, Cornwall
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It may be hidden away at the front of the Bedruthan Hotel (walk through the hotel and down through the standard restaurant to get to it), but large windows along the front of this 'very minimalist' space make the most of views overlooking Mawgan Porth beach and cove. To start, you are simply brought a selection of tapas-style snacks, perhaps mackerel tacos with ponzu, pickled shallots and cucumber, truffle arancini with black garlic, or baba ganoush with dukkah and sumac. Mains and desserts are then chosen from a brief menu. At inspection, 'beautifully cooked' pan-fried cod served with a mini fishcake on a bed of mushy peas, accompanied by a crisp fondant potato ‘chip’ (plus pickled mussel and 'tartare beurre blanc' to cut through the richness) was a clever take on fish and chips, while pork belly was bolstered by a hit of smoky 'nduja ragù. Desserts could be raspberry and pistachio millefeuille or crème brûlée, and there are local cheeses too. The wine list is unfussy and good value, with bottles starting at £23.
