The Gathering at The Samling
Windermere, Cumbria
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High on a hill outside Ambleside, the Samling hotel boasts some of the finest views of Windermere, allowing an extensive, panoramic perusal of the lake and fells. The Gathering, a relatively new dining room in a converted outbuilding down a lane, has the same beautiful vistas but in far more simple surrounds of whitewashed walls and wooden beams; diners facing away from Windermere get a pretty Lakeland scene of sheep and Shetland ponies, while the terrace is perfect when it's warm enough to sit outside. The carte offers a sophisticated menu of cleverly chosen combinations, from which you can order one, two or three courses. To begin, a trio of perfectly timed scallops come crisscrossed with celeriac batons in a pancetta-studded sauce for an elegant spin on the classic seafood and bacon combo. A pretty salad of crisp chicory leaves blobbed with goat's cheese and freshened up with quartered plums makes a lighter start, ahead of generously portioned mains. A velvety beef fillet arrives adorned with a chunky pair of oxtail spring rolls and carrots plus a liberal pour of red wine sauce. Monkfish layered with chorizo, to imbue a cassoulet base with the required smokiness, is no less hearty. Given that duck-egg baked mushrooms with Gruyère was the vegetarian main course at inspection, we wondered whether a couple of lighter options might be welcome for diners who would like to make it as far as a steamed sticky toffee pudding with salted-caramel ice cream – especially if the sunflower and tomato bread has been enthusiastically sampled. That said, complaining about generous portions seems churlish, not least as this is a room in which to linger; friendly staff are happy for diners to take a meal at their own pace, while a wine list with some heavy-hitting producers is there to be explored over what is likely to be a most enjoyable experience.
