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The Game Bird

London, St. James's - British - Restaurant - £££

A properly formal homage to old-school cuisine

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

A former carriage house tucked into a corner of St James's Place in Mayfair, the Stafford is one of the best-kept secrets among London's luxury hotels. It also boasts one of the original overseas American bars inspired by the cocktail wave and the need to escape US Prohibition during the 1920s. Its current fine-dining venue, the Game Bird, is a comfortable space, in which the cooking (under the aegis of Jozef Rogulski) has been developed in conjunction with Lisa Goodwin-Allen of the Stafford's twinned hotel, Northcote in Lancashire. The style is formality without ferocity (no torn jeans, please), and there is much to admire on the all-day menu. Perhaps pop in a Rockefeller oyster or two while you peruse the possible options. Steak tartare made with high-grade grass-fed beef, a cured egg and charcoal mayonnaise is the sort of starter to reel in the years, or there might be chalk stream trout in warm tartare sauce. Expect the titular game birds to fly in during the shooting season,...

A former carriage house tucked into a corner of St James's Place in Mayfair, the Stafford is one of the best-kept secrets among London's luxury hotels. It also boasts one of the original overseas American bars inspired by the cocktail wave and the need to escape US Prohibition during the 1920s. Its current fine-dining venue, the Game Bird, is a comfortable space, in which the cooking (under the aegis of Jozef Rogulski) has been developed in conjunction with Lisa Goodwin-Allen of the Stafford's twinned hotel, Northcote in Lancashire.

The style is formality without ferocity (no torn jeans, please), and there is much to admire on the all-day menu. Perhaps pop in a Rockefeller oyster or two while you peruse the possible options. Steak tartare made with high-grade grass-fed beef, a cured egg and charcoal mayonnaise is the sort of starter to reel in the years, or there might be chalk stream trout in warm tartare sauce. Expect the titular game birds to fly in during the shooting season, although it's also worth contemplating mains such as stuffed venison loin with whisky-glazed celeriac and savoy cabbage. The marine alternatives take in butter-poached lobster sauced with Champagne or curried monkfish tail redolent of garlic and coriander, while a pair of ravenous meaty appetites could confidently set about the majestic beef and bone-marrow pie, at an outlay that might elicit a momentary ‘Good grief!’

It wouldn't be a proper British restaurant without a trolley, and here it comes, loaded with Forman's smoked salmon. Pyrotechnic tableside action is always welcome, so expect your crêpes to be set alight in front of you – unless you don't mind waiting for a roasted pistachio soufflé with hot chocolate sauce. A pre-theatre menu will see you off safely in time for curtain-up, and you can always take in an after-dinner cocktail on your return. Wines on a list that takes no financial prisoners start at £13 a glass for a Stellenbosch Sauvignon.

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VENUE DETAILS

The Stafford, 16-18 St James's Place
St. James's
SW1A 1NJGB

020 7518 1234

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Family friendly

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