The Fernery at Grove of Narberth
Narberth, Pembrokeshire
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Grove of Narberth is in a remarkable location – a glorious, whitewashed country house of various vintages, surrounded by gardens that are 'a riot of colour in spring and summer' with ancient oaks and verdant, tree-lined fields. The interior delivers all the hoped-for modern country house glamour: an abundance of comfy sofas, chic decor, polished service. All of this comes together in The Fernery, a smart, white tableclothed affair, candlelit in the evenings, with the focus on local, seasonal ingredients and global flavours. On the eight-course tasting menu, smoked potato could be teamed with dashi, asparagus and bottarga, while succulent beef cosies up with fermented shiitake, alliums and potato. Squab pigeon is paired with celeriac, cherry and nasturtium, and native Black Bomber Cheddar is matched with apple, carrot and a fresh blast of coriander. Herbs are put to good use here – note a dessert of macadamia nuts with rhubarb, mascarpone and sweet marjoram – and much of what’s on the menu comes straight from the hotel’s own kitchen gardens. The extensive wine list is backed by an expert sommelier, so expect solid guidance through choices that extend from native Welsh finds to classics from the New and Old Worlds, including Billecart-Salmon Champagnes and plenty of sustainable, organic options (many of them available by the glass).
