The Dory Bistro
Pittenweem, Fife
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The Dory lies in the Fife hamlet of Pittenweem, one of a handful of whitewashed fishing villages that litter the East Neuk coastline. While it may seem superficially similar to many 'gallery bistros' in seaside destinations around the country (everyone mentions the paintings by Scottish artists on the walls and in the adjoining exhibition space that doubles as a private dining room), the food strikes a firm and delightful point of difference. Though the rustic harbourfront provides a beautiful view, it also points to a dominant and welcome influence on the menu and, particularly, the daily specials. Co-owner Ruth Robinson’s dishes rely on the catch lifted straight from the dayboats moored a few metres from the front door – as well as the restaurant’s kitchen garden and the plentiful output of local farms. A starter of crab velouté is beautifully balanced – the briny, umami richness of the stock contrasting with a bright, fresh croûton of sweet white crabmeat and amber pearls of scallop roe. Roast line-caught mackerel arrives perfectly cooked, its charred skin covered in a fragrant, herbal salsa verde that compliments the yielding, oily flesh beneath, while a chocolate crémeux pits the indulgence of the rich cream against a pineapple sorbet, bursting through with a hit of intense, tropical fruit. Matching the food is a short wine list with plentiful options by the glass and carafe. In an area rich with exceptional, high-end dining options, the Dory Bistro holds its own, showcasing confident, affordable cooking – and making the most of what lies right on its doorstep.
