The Barley Sheaf
St Austell , Cornwall
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Gorran is apparently a thing of many parts – Haven, High Lanes and Churchtown – but they are essentially one. Just by the titular church is the Barley Sheaf pub, which has stood since Queen Victoria's accession but has been sensitively freshened and spruced into the modern era, with a clean light look, a black slate floor and many local artworks on a seascape theme for sale. The cooking keeps its feet firmly in the pub ethos, rather than pitching into pretension, so there are steak and ale pies, fish and chips, and sausage and mash for the traditionalists, but some more cutting-edge dishes too. A hefty ham hock croquette in golden crumb is crammed to capacity with bright pink meat, and accompanied by a warm serving of celeriac rémoulade bristling with mustard seeds and a dollop of truffle mayo. That could be followed by plaice in chicken jus with chestnuts and cavolo nero. Veggie dishes lack nothing for substance and richness, if our wild mushroom ravioli with capers and celery in a thickly memorable tomato ragù is any indicator. Finish with sticky toffee pudding and clotted cream, or an inspired cheese selection. A simple wine list just about does the job, but could afford to be a little more adventurous in the context.
