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The Bailiwick Free House

Surrey, Englefield Green - Modern British - Pub - £££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Nestled at the end of a no through road, with a little terrace overlooking woodland that, in early summer, is a mass of greenery, this 19th-century pub feels blissfully rural – yet urban Egham is a mere hop away. Inside, the smart bar incorporates chesterfield sofas, wooden flooring, a log-burner, a few seats for drinkers but mostly dining tables; the restaurant proper is down a few steps at the back. A quiet jazz-funk soundtrack keeps things casual. The prospect of good food also draws folk from all around this affluent neck of the woods, and clues to the kitchen’s forte abound: the antler on the mantelpiece; the pelt flung over the banquette. The Bailiwick is on the edge of Windsor Great Park and Ramsay-trained chef/co-owner Steven Ellis (formerly at the Oxford Blue in Windsor) makes full use of the local venison, while his wife Ami takes care of the desserts. Their fixed-price menu (there are appealing bar snacks too) might begin with a pig’s trotter ballotine, an elaborate co...

Nestled at the end of a no through road, with a little terrace overlooking woodland that, in early summer, is a mass of greenery, this 19th-century pub feels blissfully rural – yet urban Egham is a mere hop away. Inside, the smart bar incorporates chesterfield sofas, wooden flooring, a log-burner, a few seats for drinkers but mostly dining tables; the restaurant proper is down a few steps at the back. A quiet jazz-funk soundtrack keeps things casual. The prospect of good food also draws folk from all around this affluent neck of the woods, and clues to the kitchen’s forte abound: the antler on the mantelpiece; the pelt flung over the banquette. The Bailiwick is on the edge of Windsor Great Park and Ramsay-trained chef/co-owner Steven Ellis (formerly at the Oxford Blue in Windsor) makes full use of the local venison, while his wife Ami takes care of the desserts. Their fixed-price menu (there are appealing bar snacks too) might begin with a pig’s trotter ballotine, an elaborate construction with wine-poached skin wrapped around the meat and a topping of crunchy pig’s ear crackling; a whole poached crab apple and a brawn croquette beneath a fried quail’s egg complete this accomplished rendition. Elsewhere, a luxuriously gooey, slow-cooked goose egg is presented with truffle-laced ‘soldiers’, Parmesan, caramelised onion, grated truffle and crunchy hazelnuts. To follow, venison remains a year-round enticement, perhaps cooked every which way: tender loin with kale and pickled spruce tips wrapped in a faggot; a dense homemade haggis croquette; the shank meat used to stuff a red onion – all part of a divertingly classy assembly made still more mouth-watering by an intense venison sauce. Similar care is taken with a dry-aged Boston ‘chop steak’, a flavour-packed specimen barbecued medium-rare and served with Caesar salad, braised beef with mash in a potato skin, and bone-marrow sauce. For dessert, lemon parfait is a pleasingly summery contrast to the main courses, beautifully presented to resemble a lemon encased within a refreshing lemonade jelly and accompanied by burnt meringue ('whisper-soft'), lemon verbena and candied zest. Service is ‘friendly, warm and attentive’, while the wine list contains a varied choice by the glass and carafe, as well as fizz produced in Windsor Great Park.

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A Smith

3 November 2023

They use the best of local suppliers and producers, including fantastic game from Windsor Great Park. Everything is cooked simply but beautifully, in a relaxed atmosphere and with real passion! I think what Steven and Ami have created in terms of food, service and atmosphere is amazing. Proper cooking and proper hospitality.

VENUE DETAILS

Wick Road
Englefield Green
Surrey
TW20 0HNGB

01784 682888

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required

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