Sumas

Jersey, Gorey - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Out on the far eastern coast of Jersey, sheltering under the promontory of Mont Orgueil Castle, which makes a splendidly Wagnerian floodlit backdrop after dark, Sumas is very much a one-off. Its entrance is on a rising road, but the restaurant faces the marine view (best caught when there is at least a little water bobbing about the boats), with a few tables on a little balcony for the luckiest. The kitchen continues to maintain the house style of straightforward modern bistro food, attractively delivered with positive flavours. Goat's cheese whipped up with truffle oil and honey makes a fully loaded starter, adorned with beetroot and carrot. Cured salmon offers soy-darkened strips of firm fillet in ponzu dressing, needing only more (or some) of the advertised wasabi in the mayo to finish it off. Treacle-glazed beef fillet and braised short rib (in full bourguignon array) benefit from creamy dauphinoise, wilted spinach and a rosemary-redolent jus, while breast of black-leg chicken...

Out on the far eastern coast of Jersey, sheltering under the promontory of Mont Orgueil Castle, which makes a splendidly Wagnerian floodlit backdrop after dark, Sumas is very much a one-off. Its entrance is on a rising road, but the restaurant faces the marine view (best caught when there is at least a little water bobbing about the boats), with a few tables on a little balcony for the luckiest. The kitchen continues to maintain the house style of straightforward modern bistro food, attractively delivered with positive flavours. Goat's cheese whipped up with truffle oil and honey makes a fully loaded starter, adorned with beetroot and carrot. Cured salmon offers soy-darkened strips of firm fillet in ponzu dressing, needing only more (or some) of the advertised wasabi in the mayo to finish it off. Treacle-glazed beef fillet and braised short rib (in full bourguignon array) benefit from creamy dauphinoise, wilted spinach and a rosemary-redolent jus, while breast of black-leg chicken comes with home-style mash (more stiff than fluffy), perfectly timed asparagus and a sage-laced chicken jus. Finish with textbook raspberry tartlet on crème pâtissière or chocolate namelaka (Japanese ganache) on a Breton sablé biscuit. The wines are a reasonably enterprising bunch, the star of the whites being the dazzling Mâcon-Azé of Domaine des Terres Gentilles, which almost tastes as though made, like so much else, with Jersey butter.

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VENUE DETAILS

Gorey Hill, St Martin
Gorey
Jersey
JE3 6ETGB

01534 853291

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly

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