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Sticky Walnut

Cheshire, Chester - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Well-liked neighbourhood bistro

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Gary Usher's Elite Bistro group began at this fondly regarded neighbourhood joint in the Hoole suburb of Chester. Extending over two levels, the dark walls hung with jolly prints, the kitchen partly on view at ground-level, it's a happy place all round – one that elicits a wistful ‘I wish I lived just around the corner’ from a satisfied reader. Popular dishes at a summer visit for one couple included sweetly glazed streaky bacon with a leafy walnut salad in buttermilk dressing, and a splendid duck breast, the pink meat properly rested, served with a tartlet of the shredded confit leg, pickled shallots, gooseberries and spring onions. Another correspondent was full of praise for roast cod with lardo Ibérico, hen of the woods, puréed onion and toasted hazelnuts. Menus turn with the seasons, arriving at the wintry end of the year with sustaining propositions such as braised featherblade of beef in red wine sauce with beetroot ketchup and the all-impor...

Gary Usher's Elite Bistro group began at this fondly regarded neighbourhood joint in the Hoole suburb of Chester. Extending over two levels, the dark walls hung with jolly prints, the kitchen partly on view at ground-level, it's a happy place all round – one that elicits a wistful ‘I wish I lived just around the corner’ from a satisfied reader. Popular dishes at a summer visit for one couple included sweetly glazed streaky bacon with a leafy walnut salad in buttermilk dressing, and a splendid duck breast, the pink meat properly rested, served with a tartlet of the shredded confit leg, pickled shallots, gooseberries and spring onions. Another correspondent was full of praise for roast cod with lardo Ibérico, hen of the woods, puréed onion and toasted hazelnuts.

Menus turn with the seasons, arriving at the wintry end of the year with sustaining propositions such as braised featherblade of beef in red wine sauce with beetroot ketchup and the all-important truffled Parmesan chips (a Gary Usher signature). If your main dish doesn't incorporate these, order them on the side.

A self-confessed ‘sweetie’ thoroughly enjoyed the honeycomb ice cream that came with dark chocolate sauce and a wedge of whole honeycomb. Look to the top-value fixed-price menu (£20 for three courses) if you're on a tight budget. Helpful wine advice is readily forthcoming, and almost everything on the approachable list is available by the glass (from £6.50).

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VENUE DETAILS

11 Charles Street
Chester
Cheshire
CH2 3AZGB

01244 400400

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OTHER INFORMATION

Family friendly, Credit card required

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