Source Kitchen
St Ives, Cornwall
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Shoehorned into the Digey, in the heart of old St Ives, Source Kitchen brings a breath of fresh 21st-century air to the surrounding pastyland and fudgescape. It's a bright room with simple wood tables, Windsor bistro chairs and wine bottles piled into an overhead shelf. The drill is snacks – bread, olives, salted almonds, Padrón peppers – followed by a selection of not-too-small plates for collaborative digging and delving. Simplicity is the key, whether for veggie offerings (charred king cabbage; garlicky butter beans with preserved lemon; organic beetroot with shaved fennel) or for the omnivore's preferences. These might be cleanly picked Cornish crab in a flat roundel, the white top concealing the dark dressed meat, alongside a serving of pickled cucumber and crostini, or a cannonball of fine Creedy Carver duck rillette equipped with a translucent cube of Victoria plum jelly, a heap of cornichons and enough sourdough to keep you preoccupied. In the evening, expect the likes of lamb loin with baba ganoush, salsa verde and puffed wild rice. An autumn lunch finished with a bowl of gorgeous chocolate mousse, garnished with yoghurt and ginger granita plus shards of pecan praline. Wines by the glass showcase some of England's new wave: Gusbourne's Kentish sparklers; brashly flowery London Cru Bacchus (grown in Sussex, pressed in Earl's Court); Nutbourne's earthily savoury Pinot Noir.
