Shell Bay
Studland, Dorset
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Just across the water from big-money Sandbanks, this is quite a location – with unbeatable panoramic views of Poole Harbour and Brownsea Island to boot. By contrast, Shell Bay itself looks a bit like a seafood shack that has seen better days – but don’t let the picket-style fences, canvas awnings, technicolour pub tables and bright metal garden chairs put you off. A troupe of smiley, buzzy, dressed-down staff keep things moving along at a pace, and the food passes muster – even if the bill is several notches up from your average high-speed seaside café (mind you, those fabulous vistas are almost worth the price of admission). Not surprisingly, seafood figures prominently on the wide-ranging menu, from Poole Bay oysters with shallot vinegar or clean-cut cured salmon with fennel and apple salad to whole local crab and various offerings ‘from the wood oven’ – perhaps sea bass, Galician-style octopus or skate wing (perked up by a side order of sweet, nutty roasted Jerusalem artichokes with truffle and Parmesan). Otherwise, the kitchen goes walkabout for the likes of red lentil kofta with quinoa tabbouleh or a duo of lamb with Puy lentils, cavolo nero, pomegranate jus and smoked almond brittle. To finish, a light, creamy coffee crème brûlée was the top pick from a mixed bag of international desserts at inspection. The wine list is designed for mass-market appeal, with prices from £24.50. Note that Shell Bay is closed for most of the winter months, so check before travelling.
