Seabreeze
Aberdovey, Gwynedd
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Arriving at Seabreeze, hopefully to gentle winds coming in from the Irish Sea, most readers are struck by the friendliness of the staff. Overlooking Cardigan Bay, and with eight en-suite bedrooms, the building looks like many other guest houses on the strip, but what sets it apart from the competition is the food served in its unpretentious restaurant. 'Local' and 'seasonal' are the watchwords – the kitchen looking to the land and sea with equal dedication. Salt-cod fritters arrive with lemon aïoli, injecting a European note that extends to a main course of spelt risotto flavoured with beetroot. There is classic fish and chips, too, and seafood is well-handled across the board – 'perfectly cooked' sea bream, for example. Confit pork belly (cooked long and slow) is matched with black pudding croquette and caramelised apple, while Welsh Black ribeye comes with everything from battered onion rings to peppercorn sauce. Keep an eye on the blackboard for daily specials. Among desserts, bread and butter pudding and sticky toffee pud play the comfort card, with vanilla panna cotta (accompanied by rhubarb and shortbread) touching base with mainland Europe once again. The 'great-value' wine list opens at £21.50 for an Italian white, Chilean red and Californian rosé.
