Search the Good Food Guide - Site Settings site

Location

Establishment Type

Cuisine

Price

Clear
New Review
  View all 3 photos
  /3
X

CONTINUE READING

Already a member? Log in here

Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.

* indicates required

The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 2 weeks

Try for free

 

Rules

London, Covent Garden - British - Restaurant - £££

Old Britannia rules in Covent Garden

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

A fixture of dining out in the heart of the West End since the time of George III, Rules is now well into its third century of operations. It remains a gloriously unreconstructed monument to British ways of dining, coming into its own particularly during the game season. A diner who knows his birds regretted the seeming obsolescence of the grouse season these days, but was relieved to find a red-legged partridge on the bill of fare in September. A silver pint tankard of Black Velvet (Champagne got up in a sombre coat of Guinness, originally to mourn the passing of Prince Albert in 1861) makes for a satisfying entrée to the Rules experience. Dishes that have slipped into the heritage category are treated as if they were still the acme of gastronomy – witness the steak and kidney suet pudding freighted with tender succulent beef and intensely flavoured offal (plus an oyster too, if you will), together with another silver vessel, this time a boat of extra gravy. Add sides of...

A fixture of dining out in the heart of the West End since the time of George III, Rules is now well into its third century of operations. It remains a gloriously unreconstructed monument to British ways of dining, coming into its own particularly during the game season. A diner who knows his birds regretted the seeming obsolescence of the grouse season these days, but was relieved to find a red-legged partridge on the bill of fare in September. A silver pint tankard of Black Velvet (Champagne got up in a sombre coat of Guinness, originally to mourn the passing of Prince Albert in 1861) makes for a satisfying entrée to the Rules experience.

Dishes that have slipped into the heritage category are treated as if they were still the acme of gastronomy – witness the steak and kidney suet pudding freighted with tender succulent beef and intensely flavoured offal (plus an oyster too, if you will), together with another silver vessel, this time a boat of extra gravy. Add sides of dauphinoise and creamed spinach, and satisfaction is complete.

Start perhaps with stuffed mussels replete with garlic and herb butter, topped with breadcrumbs, or one of the daringly modern salads – smoked ham, pomegranate and blood-orange, or beetroot, apple, walnut and blue cheese – the better to enjoy the richness to come. Main-course fish includes a salmon escalope napped with Champagne chive butter, but meat options tend to be the favourites: a ‘cassoulet’ made with rabbit, smoked bacon and black pudding, for example. Treacle tart and orchard fruit crumbles are de rigueur for afters, but flourless blood-orange and chocolate cake shows that not all passing trends pass Rules by.

A deeply traditional wine list opens with a Rhône red and a dry white Bordeaux by the glass. Service, from initial halloo to fond farewell, is impeccable throughout, while the decorative style (complete with glistening burnished wood, classical figurines, old prints and paintings) augments the atmosphere a treat. Be prepared, though, for a steep, narrow ascent to the bathrooms.

Read full reviewSee less

B Madderson

9 September 2024

Rules remains the quintessentially British restaurant in London. Not just because it claims to be the oldest (est 1796) but also because it serves traditional staples including game. Most restaurants have by-passed the m...
Rules remains the quintessentially British restaurant in London. Not just because it claims to be the oldest (est 1796) but also because it serves traditional staples including game. Most restaurants have by-passed the much-regarded grouse season as the shortage of birds meant that prices for a brace were absurdly high. However, it was good to see that red-legged partridge was on the menu as a special with the season having opened on 1 September.

My host generously treated us to a...
Rules remains the quintessentially British restaurant in London. Not just because it claims to be the oldest (est 1796) but also because it serves traditional staples including game. Most restaurants have by-passed the much-regarded grouse season as the shortage of birds meant that prices for a brace were absurdly high. However, it was good to see that red-legged partridge was on the menu as a special with the season having opened on 1 September.

My host generously treated us to a Black Velvet (£19.95) on arrival and this soon arrived in a glorious silver pint tankard. What a wonderful drink and how typical of their style that Rules continues to be one of the very few London restaurants offering this British speciality.

As a starter, I opted for the 'side' of beetroot, apple, walnut and blue cheese salad (£8.95) which was as light, crisp and delicious as I had hoped. This was a sensible choice with a superb steak & kidney suet pudding (£24.95) following for the main course. The beef was tender and succulent with the kidney providing some bite and intense flavour. Rules cleverly anticipate their customer’s needs by providing extra gravy in a silver boat at the outset. Dauphinoise potatoes and creamed spinach (£5.95 each) were well presented accompaniments.

Service was impeccable including the greeting by reception in the comfortable waiting area. The ambience is wonderful 'Olde England' with lovely prints, glistening dark wood, banquettes and a quiet air of calm and professionalism. My only gripe is that the toilets are located on the first floor accessible by a steep and narrow stair case – not good for the elderly and infirm.
See MoreSee less

VENUE DETAILS

35 Maiden Lane
Covent Garden
WC2E 7LBGB

020 7836 5314

View opening times

Make a reservation

OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar

More like this

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    Latest articles