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Rules

London, Covent Garden - British - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

'As befitting the capital’s oldest restaurant, nothing has changed since we were last here,' noted one visitor. The walls are so covered with long-gone actors and artists that there’s little room for anyone new; the large portrait of the late Queen Elizabeth II seems almost anachronistic in its modernity. The tables are swathed in white linen, the decor is Regency red and gold, and the staff are formal and efficient. Rules owns an estate up north and the kitchen really comes into its own when game is in season (expect anything from grouse to woodcock, classically served), but there’s plenty to draw those with hearty appetites the rest of the year. Steak and kidney pudding (complete with suet crust) is a perennial favourite, likewise chicken leek and mushroom pie, while a dish of deeply flavoured, slow-cooked pork cheek with black pudding, roast apple purée and Puy lentil is a winner, too. Start with duck rillettes accompanied by a green salad and cornichons or ...

'As befitting the capital’s oldest restaurant, nothing has changed since we were last here,' noted one visitor. The walls are so covered with long-gone actors and artists that there’s little room for anyone new; the large portrait of the late Queen Elizabeth II seems almost anachronistic in its modernity. The tables are swathed in white linen, the decor is Regency red and gold, and the staff are formal and efficient. Rules owns an estate up north and the kitchen really comes into its own when game is in season (expect anything from grouse to woodcock, classically served), but there’s plenty to draw those with hearty appetites the rest of the year. Steak and kidney pudding (complete with suet crust) is a perennial favourite, likewise chicken leek and mushroom pie, while a dish of deeply flavoured, slow-cooked pork cheek with black pudding, roast apple purée and Puy lentil is a winner, too. Start with duck rillettes accompanied by a green salad and cornichons or ever-popular potted shrimps, and don't ignore the pudding menu – a roll call of all that Britain has done best for centuries. How about a steamed syrup sponge with a dollop of double cream and a jug of custard poured at table, or apple and pear crumble, or sticky toffee pud? Otherwise, there's napkin-wrapped Stilton (served with the appropriate spoon) or Welsh rarebit for diehard traditionalists. All of this comes at a price, especially when you factor in a (mostly French) wine list with mark-ups to match. But, in the words of one devotee: 'It makes for an unforgettable meal and one that should be on any London diner's bucket list.'

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b Madderson

9 September 2024

Rules remains the quintessentially British restaurant in London. Not just because it claims to be the oldest (est 1796) but also because it serves traditional staples including game. Most restaurants have by-passed the much-regarded grouse season as the shortage of birds meant that prices for a brace were absurdly high. However, it was good to see that red-legged partridge was on the menu as a special with the season having opened on 1 September. My host generously treated us to a Black Velve...
Rules remains the quintessentially British restaurant in London. Not just because it claims to be the oldest (est 1796) but also because it serves traditional staples including game. Most restaurants have by-passed the much-regarded grouse season as the shortage of birds meant that prices for a brace were absurdly high. However, it was good to see that red-legged partridge was on the menu as a special with the season having opened on 1 September. My host generously treated us to a Black Velvet (£19.95) on arrival and this soon arrived in a glorious silver pint tankard. What a wonderful drink and how typical of their style that Rules continues to be one of the very few London restaurants offering this British speciality. As a starter, I opted for the 'side' of beetroot, apple, walnut and blue cheese salad (£8.95) which was as light, crisp and delicious as I had hoped. This was a sensible choice with a superb steak & kidney suet pudding (£24.95) following for the main course. The beef was tender and succulent with the kidney providing some bite and intense flavour. Rules cleverly anticipate their customer’s needs by providing extra gravy in a silver boat at the outset. Dauphinoise potatoes and creamed spinach (£5.95 each) were well presented accompaniments. Service was impeccable including the greeting by reception in the comfortable waiting area. The ambience is wonderful 'Olde England' with lovely prints, glistening dark wood, banquettes and a quiet air of calm and professionalism. My only gripe is that the toilets are located on the first floor accessible by a steep and narrow stair case – not good for the elderly and infirm.
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VENUE DETAILS

35 Maiden Lane
Covent Garden
WC2E 7LBGB

020 7836 5314

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar

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