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Roots

Dorset, Bournemouth - Modern European - Restaurant - ££££

Pint-sized bistro with gastronomic ambition

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

The location in a little parade of shops in the Southbourne district of Bournemouth may lead you to expect a run-of-the-mill neighbourhood bistro, but Roots has rather loftier ambitions than that. Its pint-sized dimensions and simple-enough decor, with sea scenes on exposed brick walls, belie the wide-angle culinary lens of Jan Bretschneider. That's abundantly evident from the off, with a serving of sumptuously textured rye bread with various spreadable toppings – a fond wave to the proprietor's German heritage. To follow, expect a range of dishes that look distinctive, even occasionally bizarre, but that mobilise layers of flavour of unexpected subtlety and impact. Kombu potato with cream cheese in seaweed beurre blanc might precede a pairing of scallop and oxtail, powered up with horseradish and salsify in red wine dressing. Another successful twinning, of halibut and lobster, comes in massaman curry guise, full of the sweetness of carrot and passion fruit, while the principal...

The location in a little parade of shops in the Southbourne district of Bournemouth may lead you to expect a run-of-the-mill neighbourhood bistro, but Roots has rather loftier ambitions than that. Its pint-sized dimensions and simple-enough decor, with sea scenes on exposed brick walls, belie the wide-angle culinary lens of Jan Bretschneider. That's abundantly evident from the off, with a serving of sumptuously textured rye bread with various spreadable toppings – a fond wave to the proprietor's German heritage.

To follow, expect a range of dishes that look distinctive, even occasionally bizarre, but that mobilise layers of flavour of unexpected subtlety and impact. Kombu potato with cream cheese in seaweed beurre blanc might precede a pairing of scallop and oxtail, powered up with horseradish and salsify in red wine dressing. Another successful twinning, of halibut and lobster, comes in massaman curry guise, full of the sweetness of carrot and passion fruit, while the principal course on the taster could be as old-school as beef en croûte with parsnip in garlicky bourguignon.

Bretschneider's signature ‘jelly and ice cream’ finisher might well be scented with winter truffle and boozed up with Tokaji, but the superb cheese selection is worth saving a little capacity for too. A relatively compact wine list is served with enormous enthusiasm by one of the most engaging front-of-house managers on the whole South Coast.

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F Wilson

28 January 2025

A fantastic first experience of fine dining. The food was intricate and beautiful in presentation and highly flavourful. The attention to detail was incredible. Although we were worried about the amount of food (exquisit...
A fantastic first experience of fine dining. The food was intricate and beautiful in presentation and highly flavourful. The attention to detail was incredible. Although we were worried about the amount of food (exquisite small morsels), we were pleasantly satisfied by the end. Dishes change monthly, ours featured beetroot, celeriac as well as rhubarb. Our first experience of paired wines, too, which was fun to try. I had the vegetarian menu which was just as good as the non-veggie. The host exp...
A fantastic first experience of fine dining. The food was intricate and beautiful in presentation and highly flavourful. The attention to detail was incredible. Although we were worried about the amount of food (exquisite small morsels), we were pleasantly satisfied by the end. Dishes change monthly, ours featured beetroot, celeriac as well as rhubarb. Our first experience of paired wines, too, which was fun to try. I had the vegetarian menu which was just as good as the non-veggie. The host explained the menu and dishes thoroughly and was the right amount of attentive.
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O Hunter

27 January 2025

Outstanding dining, exquisite food, perfect wine pairing, true art. An incredible nine course meal (not including coffee) - with food so delicate, compositions so ingenious, flavours so powerful, service so unique. This place is fantastic and the owners truly talented.

S Isaacs

26 January 2025

We always enjoy tasty and innovative food here. The menu changes once a month, which is unique in the area, and the hosting is friendly and informative. Jan, the chef, is always pushing boundaries and excited to try new things.

C Rocker

24 January 2025

Our wasabi-themed dinner was simply exquisite. The service was friendly, the food was exceptional, and the wine choices were very appropriate and delicious. We have visited before, and one thing that always strikes us is that even though the restaurant is small, you never feel too close to the other diners; it stays quiet and intimate. Overall, 10/10.

VENUE DETAILS

141 Belle Vue Road
Bournemouth
Dorset
BH6 3ENGB

01202 430005

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Credit card required, Deposit required

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