Ronnie's of Thornbury
Thornbury, Gloucestershire
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Still helmed by chef-patron Ron Faulkner, this much-loved institution is known for its solid, seasonal modern European cooking, which draws a loyal local crowd who come for a self-proclaimed ‘fine dining experience’. Whether you opt for the carte or the tasting menu, you can expect plenty of little treats between courses, from amuse-bouches of gingerbread crisps with carrot and orange purée to an entremet of silky Jerusalem artichoke velouté. The full repertoire encompasses everything from beetroot tartare with goat’s cheese and tangy wafer-thin slices of sour apple to a main dish of roast lamb loin accompanied by dauphinoise potatoes, pear, pickled parsnip and red amaranth. Pudding could be an extravagant chocolate and cherry timbale with kirsch mousse and cherry sorbet or perhaps a comforting apple and blackberry crumble with Calvados cream. The friendliness of the service makes up for the rather off-putting location (within a shopping precinct) and the slight chilliness of the dining room – a prettily decorated and atmospherically lit converted schoolhouse with thick stone walls and deep windows reaching to the high ceiling. An impressive array of lesser-known Eastern European wine producers stands out on the adventurous and good-value drinks list.
