Quo Vadis
Soho, London
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A little creative reconfiguration of its ground-floor space has worked well at this old Soho player. Where once a revolving door scuttled you into a large lobby, there is now a more direct route in, with crimson banquettes against cafe-curtained windows and smart linen-clad tables setting the scene. A good deal of its business is pre-theatre, so the evening session proceeds in measured waves, but service is attuned to timing without the need for anyone to feel hustled. Jeremy Lee has always worked at the popular end of the Anglo-French spectrum. A warm cuttlefish salad comes with finely shaved fennel, celery and a tangle of caramelised onions for sweet, earthy depth, while simple seasonal veg starters such as beetroot with a soft-boiled egg, or asparagus vinaigrette, get their early-doors chance to shine. Pie of the day is an amply satisfying behemoth, perhaps harbouring chicken, guinea fowl and lardons within its suet crust, the chips crisp and plentiful. Other meats might take in lamb shank or onglet, while mackerel with gooseberries and horseradish has been promoted to the grandeur of a full main course. Finish with île flottante in its carapace of honey-coloured caramel, or densely textured lemon tart with good crème fraîche. A handful of wines by the glass head up a list that hits its stride in the classic French regions.
