Old Downton Lodge

Ludlow, Shropshire

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'In the middle of nowhere!' Trust your SatNav to find this utterly idyllic spot in the Shropshire hinterland – without it you will get hopelessly lost. But the sense of peace and tranquillity when you arrive is worth the journey. First stop is the bar, housed in an ancient barn, where there’s a strong emphasis on local ingredients and suppliers – Ludlow and Herefordshire gins feature on the drinks list; there’s even a ('pretty good') Hereford wine, sold by the glass. Take your pick while ordering from the personalised menu, before being shown to the grand old dining room. The kitchen, while not quite cutting edge, sets the tone with beguiling canapés of beetroot mini-meringues with goat's curd or clever little gougères, ahead of the likes of coronation crab with a delicate crab biscuit or pork fillet and cheek with an array of alliums. To conclude, perhaps Cobrey Farm blueberries with calamansi parfait or a confection of caramel mousse, miso, chocolate and stout. Dinner is guaranteed to be a beautiful affair – presentation is as faultless as the dining room is impressive. Staff are eager to please, and there are plenty of keenly priced wines too (from Tanners of Shrewsbury).