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Best Local Restaurant
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North Street Kitchen

Cornwall, Fowey - Seafood - Restaurant - ££

Communal dining and sustainable seafood in a converted boatshed

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Down at the quieter end of Fowey, the Friskney-Bryer's converted boatshed restaurant enjoys oblique views of the comings and goings of small craft out on the creek. The main room has one long communal table down the middle, with a kitchen that is not so much open to view as half-protruding into the dining space (the sort of set-up you'd pay a premium for at a boutique hotel 'chef's table'). Festoon lighting makes the place look bonny as the Cornish dusk descends, and the blackboard menus are cause for unmuted celebration. Ethan Friskney-Bryer was head chef here before acquiring the place in February 2024, and remains as committed as ever to the principles of variety and sustainability in seafood. It's the kind of place where your fish might well have been caught by one of the chefs. The local mussels in garlic butter and cider are a reliably popular draw, preceded perhaps by a plate of pickled anchovies or a clutch of Porthilly rock oysters. Main dishes take in perfectly timed white f...

Down at the quieter end of Fowey, the Friskney-Bryer's converted boatshed restaurant enjoys oblique views of the comings and goings of small craft out on the creek. The main room has one long communal table down the middle, with a kitchen that is not so much open to view as half-protruding into the dining space (the sort of set-up you'd pay a premium for at a boutique hotel 'chef's table'). Festoon lighting makes the place look bonny as the Cornish dusk descends, and the blackboard menus are cause for unmuted celebration.

Ethan Friskney-Bryer was head chef here before acquiring the place in February 2024, and remains as committed as ever to the principles of variety and sustainability in seafood. It's the kind of place where your fish might well have been caught by one of the chefs. The local mussels in garlic butter and cider are a reliably popular draw, preceded perhaps by a plate of pickled anchovies or a clutch of Porthilly rock oysters. Main dishes take in perfectly timed white fish such as sea bass with chard in delightfully fresh lemon butter, or butterflied mackerel with garlic stalks and bacon. It's important not to miss the garlic one way or another, as is evident from the gentle thrum it lends a beetroot starter, enriched with creamy goat's cheese.

With glorious, rosemary-oiled focaccia to sop everything up, you will find yourself steered towards the one dessert of the day, perhaps a light and airy chocolate mousse with caramel and a judicious sprinkling of salt. A handful of wines by the glass (most priced at £4.50) just about do the trick.

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S Kennedy

2 October 2024

North Street Kitchen has a slight edge as far as the quality of cooking was concerned over the two similar style of restaurants (Mackerel Sky in Newlyn and Barbican Bistro in Penzance) that we visited on a recent visit t...
North Street Kitchen has a slight edge as far as the quality of cooking was concerned over the two similar style of restaurants (Mackerel Sky in Newlyn and Barbican Bistro in Penzance) that we visited on a recent visit to Cornwall. Outstanding taramasalata (even by Greek standards) and a delicious whole bream certainly made it worth a detour as the tyre people would say - which is just as well as Fowey is not really on the way to anywhere unless you are staying there. The riverside location is v...
North Street Kitchen has a slight edge as far as the quality of cooking was concerned over the two similar style of restaurants (Mackerel Sky in Newlyn and Barbican Bistro in Penzance) that we visited on a recent visit to Cornwall. Outstanding taramasalata (even by Greek standards) and a delicious whole bream certainly made it worth a detour as the tyre people would say - which is just as well as Fowey is not really on the way to anywhere unless you are staying there. The riverside location is very pleasant (though do park outside the village and walk rather than try to drive through the atmospheric but narrow and twisting streets); the communal seating a bit less cramped than at Mackerel Sky. They also do a mean fish soup though I'd suggest serving the croutons and rouille separately (maybe with a bit of their grated Cornish Gouda) at the table to add more crunch.
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E King

3 May 2024

Great fresh, local food, great staff, and a great atmosphere in a relaxed, unpretentious environment make North Street Kitchen our go-to restaurant.

H Petersen

3 May 2024

Honest and creatively finessed British coastal cooking in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Incredible food and an outstanding commitment to organic and ethical local suppliers of veg and seafood.

VENUE DETAILS

55 North Street
Fowey
Cornwall
PL23 1DBGB

07444 028522

OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Family friendly, Dog friendly

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