North Street Kitchen

Down at the quieter end of Fowey, the Friskney-Bryer's converted boatshed restaurant not only enjoys oblique views of the comings and goings of small craft out on the creek, it has also ‘brought great energy’ to the town. The main room features a long, communal table down the middle, with a kitchen that is not entirely open to view, but rather half-protruding into the dining space. Festoon lighting makes the place look bonny as the Cornish dusk descends, and the blackboard menus are cause for unmuted celebration (note that lunches are for walk-ins only, so arrive early).

Ethan Friskney-Bryer was head chef here before acquiring the place in February 2024, and remains as committed as ever to seasonality and sustainability, helped by chefs who go out to catch fish and also grow vegetables for the kitchen. Porthilly rock oysters au naturel are a reliably popular draw; otherwise, kick off with brown crab rarebit or fried whiting with curried mayo. Main dishes might take in Cornish sole with tomatoes and garlic butter, gurnard with runner beans or mackerel with green sauce. There are usually a few veggie plates, too – perhaps braised courgettes with goat’s curd.

After that, it’s hard to resist the dessert of the day, perhaps baked cheesecake with strawberries or the ever-popular chocolate mousse with caramel and salt. The vibe is infectiously informal, while Ethan’s partner runs front of house with ‘efficiency and friendly charm’. To drink, a handful of natural wines by the glass just about do the trick – or you might fancy some grape juice from the Tamar Valley.