North Street Kitchen
Cornwall, Fowey - Seafood - Restaurant - ££
Communal dining and sustainable seafood in a converted boatshed
Down at the quieter end of Fowey, the Friskney-Bryer's converted boatshed restaurant enjoys oblique views of the comings and goings of small craft out on the creek. The main room has one long communal table down the middle, with a kitchen that is not so much open to view as half-protruding into the dining space (the sort of set-up you'd pay a premium for at a boutique hotel 'chef's table'). Festoon lighting makes the place look bonny as the Cornish dusk descends, and the blackboard menus are cause for unmuted celebration. Ethan Friskney-Bryer was head chef here before acquiring the place in February 2024, and remains as committed as ever to the principles of variety and sustainability in seafood. It's the kind of place where your fish might well have been caught by one of the chefs. The local mussels in garlic butter and cider are a reliably popular draw, preceded perhaps by a plate of pickled anchovies or a clutch of Porthilly rock oysters. Main dishes take in perfectly timed white f...
Down at the quieter end of Fowey, the Friskney-Bryer's converted boatshed restaurant enjoys oblique views of the comings and goings of small craft out on the creek. The main room has one long communal table down the middle, with a kitchen that is not so much open to view as half-protruding into the dining space (the sort of set-up you'd pay a premium for at a boutique hotel 'chef's table'). Festoon lighting makes the place look bonny as the Cornish dusk descends, and the blackboard menus are cause for unmuted celebration.
Ethan Friskney-Bryer was head chef here before acquiring the place in February 2024, and remains as committed as ever to the principles of variety and sustainability in seafood. It's the kind of place where your fish might well have been caught by one of the chefs. The local mussels in garlic butter and cider are a reliably popular draw, preceded perhaps by a plate of pickled anchovies or a clutch of Porthilly rock oysters. Main dishes take in perfectly timed white fish such as sea bass with chard in delightfully fresh lemon butter, or butterflied mackerel with garlic stalks and bacon. It's important not to miss the garlic one way or another, as is evident from the gentle thrum it lends a beetroot starter, enriched with creamy goat's cheese.
With glorious, rosemary-oiled focaccia to sop everything up, you will find yourself steered towards the one dessert of the day, perhaps a light and airy chocolate mousse with caramel and a judicious sprinkling of salt. A handful of wines by the glass (most priced at £4.50) just about do the trick.
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H Petersen
3 May 2024
Honest and creatively finessed British coastal cooking in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Incredible food and an outstanding commitment to organic and ethical local suppliers of veg and seafood.
VENUE DETAILS
55 North Street
Fowey
Cornwall
PL23 1DB
07444 028522
OTHER INFORMATION
Counter seating, Family friendly, Dog friendly