Noble Rot Soho
London, Soho - Modern European - Restaurant - £££
Glorious thought-provoking wines steal the show
The second Noble Rot (the original is in Lamb’s Conduit Street, a third in Mayfair), opened on the site of the legendary Gay Hussar in late 2020. Spread over two floors, the dark, unfussy interior is understated and warmly atmospheric – wood panelling, bare floorboards – with the walls of the small ground-floor dining room lined with colourful covers of Noble Rot wine magazine (the owners of the restaurant). Arguably, it’s the wine list that's the biggest draw – a glorious, thought provoking, ever-evolving one-off. In fact, when we arrived for our early dinner, several tables were still happily ensconced from lunch, lingering over a bottle or three. As for the food, latest chef Aron Stigmon’s menu has a seasonal slant and rustic European flavour with dishes substantial enough that finishing with a dessert can seem like self-indulgence – especially if you’ve tucked into the irresistible focaccia, sourdough and treacly soda bread befo...
The second Noble Rot (the original is in Lamb’s Conduit Street, a third in Mayfair), opened on the site of the legendary Gay Hussar in late 2020. Spread over two floors, the dark, unfussy interior is understated and warmly atmospheric – wood panelling, bare floorboards – with the walls of the small ground-floor dining room lined with colourful covers of Noble Rot wine magazine (the owners of the restaurant). Arguably, it’s the wine list that's the biggest draw – a glorious, thought provoking, ever-evolving one-off. In fact, when we arrived for our early dinner, several tables were still happily ensconced from lunch, lingering over a bottle or three.
As for the food, latest chef Aron Stigmon’s menu has a seasonal slant and rustic European flavour with dishes substantial enough that finishing with a dessert can seem like self-indulgence – especially if you’ve tucked into the irresistible focaccia, sourdough and treacly soda bread beforehand. Flavours are direct, whether guinea fowl chou-farci to start, followed by a hearty stuffed rabbit leg with choucroute and mustard, or whole-baked John Dory with morteau sausage and clams. Desserts such as apple and Chinon galette will tempt, even if you didn’t think you needed one.
Relaxed, cheerful service is knowledgeable when it comes to wine – especially welcome given the scope of the list, presented on an iPad. From an idiosyncratic collection of gems by the glass, we were delighted with our recommendation for Apostolos Thymiopoulos’s 2009 ‘Blanc de Rosé’ from Macedonia.
VENUE DETAILS
020 7183 8190
OTHER INFORMATION
Private dining room, No background music