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Noble Rot Soho

London, Soho - Modern European - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

* Head chef Alex Jackson has left and his place has been taken by Áron Stigmon, (formerly of Noble Rot Mayfair). Watch for a new review coming soon. * Back in the day, the Gay Hussar was listed in the Guide for six decades, before the march of time got the better of it. Mark Andrew and Dan Keeling of Noble Rot in Bloomsbury resuscitated it in 2020, installing the estimable Alex Jackson (ex-Sardine, RIP) in the kitchen. Already it feels like an institution; the creaky stairs, dark wood panels, and cut-glass decanters are bohemian Soho through and through. Under Francophile Jackson, few ghosts of the Hungarian menu remain. In their stead, expect French-accented classics: Robert Carrier’s pâté aux herbes; slip sole with Café de Paris butter (a Noble Rot signature); whole roast chicken with morels and vin jaune. While from beyond l’Hexagone come nettle and ricotta malfatti, Sicilian fish couscous or spätzle with mousserons. A midwinter visi...

* Head chef Alex Jackson has left and his place has been taken by Áron Stigmon, (formerly of Noble Rot Mayfair). Watch for a new review coming soon. *

Back in the day, the Gay Hussar was listed in the Guide for six decades, before the march of time got the better of it. Mark Andrew and Dan Keeling of Noble Rot in Bloomsbury resuscitated it in 2020, installing the estimable Alex Jackson (ex-Sardine, RIP) in the kitchen. Already it feels like an institution; the creaky stairs, dark wood panels, and cut-glass decanters are bohemian Soho through and through. Under Francophile Jackson, few ghosts of the Hungarian menu remain. In their stead, expect French-accented classics: Robert Carrier’s pâté aux herbes; slip sole with Café de Paris butter (a Noble Rot signature); whole roast chicken with morels and vin jaune. While from beyond l’Hexagone come nettle and ricotta malfatti, Sicilian fish couscous or spätzle with mousserons. A midwinter visit yielded punchily dressed vitello tonnato and satisfying golden-skinned lamb rump over lentils and salsa verde, loosened with the lamb juices. Pudding might be a tart, a mousse, or a plate of à point French cheese. The wine list is simply one of the best in London, an outstanding, deeply researched and inspiring document. Predominantly organised by grape variety, with regional sections where blends are predominant, it spans a massive range of top-drawer growers and estates. The principal focus is Europe, though there are some pedigree New Worlders too. Portuguese and Greek selections are encouragingly thorough, and the listings of sparklers and sweet wines (rotted and late-picked) are tremendous. Wines by the glass are in small enough measures to make comparative tasting feasible. Coravin pours will test the budget, but are uniformly glorious.

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VENUE DETAILS

2 Greek Street
Soho
W1D 4NBGB

020 7183 8190

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, No background music

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