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Newell

Dorset, Sherborne - French - Restaurant with rooms - ££

Personally run French bistro offering value for money

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Paul Merrony made his name cooking accessible French brasserie food at the much missed Giaconda Dining Room in Covent Garden's Demark Street. With partner Tracey Petersen, he decamped to Dorset and set about turning a failed pub into a bistro with rooms, developing the place on a shoestring. Indeed, there’s a homespun honesty about the resulting dining room with its plain light-wood tables, red napkins, dark-green walls and old-fashioned sideboards. Readers continue to applaud Merrony’s dedication to seasonal produce and, above all, the outstanding value for money: you can get three courses for under £30 if you steer clear of the supplements. The menu, scribbled on a blackboard, is a modest line-up of classic French bistro staples, all ‘well-prepared, lusciously flavoured and beautifully presented,’ according to one reporter who enjoyed a bowl of authentically chilled vichyssoise followed by ‘excellent’ cod provençal. Otherwise, expect ...

Paul Merrony made his name cooking accessible French brasserie food at the much missed Giaconda Dining Room in Covent Garden's Demark Street. With partner Tracey Petersen, he decamped to Dorset and set about turning a failed pub into a bistro with rooms, developing the place on a shoestring. Indeed, there’s a homespun honesty about the resulting dining room with its plain light-wood tables, red napkins, dark-green walls and old-fashioned sideboards.

Readers continue to applaud Merrony’s dedication to seasonal produce and, above all, the outstanding value for money: you can get three courses for under £30 if you steer clear of the supplements. The menu, scribbled on a blackboard, is a modest line-up of classic French bistro staples, all ‘well-prepared, lusciously flavoured and beautifully presented,’ according to one reporter who enjoyed a bowl of authentically chilled vichyssoise followed by ‘excellent’ cod provençal. Otherwise, expect anything from duck liver mousse or ratatouille with goat's cheese crotin to steak tartare, gigot of lamb or roast guinea fowl for two to share.

There’s always a daily fish dish and various seasonal specials too, while desserts bring forth a hotchpotch of Gallic classics – iced apricot mousse, fruit charlotte, Mont Blanc, rum baba, Agen prunes. Glasses of kir and Ricard are there for the taking if you require a sharpener, and the carefully curated 60-bin wine list kicks off with an easy-drinking ‘Le Lesc’, Côtes de Gascogne. 

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VENUE DETAILS

Greenhill
Sherborne
Dorset
DT9 4EPGB

01935 710386

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Private dining room, No background music

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