Melton's
York, North Yorkshire
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Long-known locally as an absolute banker for food, wine and hospitality, Melton's is synonymous with the idea of a treat. Inside, the Art Deco detailing, wood panelling and giant mural endure – even as surrounding Bishy Road thrusts forward, trendier than ever. Michael Hjort's head chef Calvin Miller is no stick-in-the-mud, however. Fresh as well as classic flavours make up generous set menus – witness dashi vinegar paired with smoked eel and Granny Smith's apple or Japanese milk bread added to a plate of Yorkshire lamb. Likeable bits and bobs show off a skill with baking (treacle and sesame bread with wild garlic butter, and tiny Cheddar shortbread sandwiches, for example), while starters might see a seasonal rally of charred asparagus, fluffed-up brown-butter hollandaise and bijou onion petals in a delicate tartlet. Pearly East Coast cod is matched with the restrained, vegetal flavours of maitake mushroom (aka hen of the woods), celery oil and bundled ribbons of celeriac, with a whey sauce pitched perfectly to bring it all together. Puddings such as caramelised pear soufflé with candied pecans and brown-butter ice cream are more straightforwardly luxurious. A short wine list covers most bases but the Melton's cellar has hidden depths, to which co-owner Lucy Hjort is an affable and enthusiastic guide.
Good Food Guide Club members are welcome to a £10 voucher towards their bill when choosing the seven-course tasting menu (please advise upon booking).
