Marmo
Bristol
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As coolly refined as the marble after which it is named, this haven of Italian-accented gastronomy occupies a bright, sparsely decorated dining room with white walls, cream wooden panelling and dark wooden tables. At the back is an almost makeshift-looking open kitchen, from whence come beautifully presented, precisely cooked plates of deeply flavoured delights. A short menu showcases Cosmo Sterck’s ability to wring deep flavour from the humblest of ingredients: starter might be an unctuous pressed rectangle of pig’s head offset by tangy pickled rhubarb, while mains might bring plates of conchiglie in a meaty rabbit ragù with chopped offal or flat iron steak with artichoke caponata. Puddings are simple, but no less impressively executed: a dollop of rich chocolate mousse, slathered in thick cream and dusted with cocoa powder, is a grown-up affair. At £25 for three courses, the set lunch is superb value. The wine list focuses on organic, biodynamic and low-intervention tipples, predominantly from Italy and France, with a 30% discount if you fancy taking a bottle home to try.
