Lorne
Victoria, London
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‘An unassuming restaurant in an unassuming location,' noted one reader. Katie Exton is now the sole proprietor, with Graham Brown (who has worked at Lorne since opening) promoted to head chef – although you won't notice any change when you walk into the dining room. Simply furnished with Scandi-style, pale wood furnishings, orange leather booths, potted plants and colourful modern art on white walls, it feels calm and relaxing. As for the food, flavours are fresh and distinct. A recent lunch kicked off with a tartare of sea bream partnered with diced kohlrabi, cucumber, salty dashi jelly and a topping of crunchy beer batter, ahead of thinly sliced veal rump teamed with fondant potatoes, courgettes, goat's curd and Parmesan. To finish, a chocolate crémeux, partnered with milk ice cream, cocoa nibs and a coating of warm chocolate foam ‘looked like a splodge but tasted of heaven’. Warm, smiley service goes out of its way to make sure everyone has a pleasurable time. The wine list (from £28) is one of the more interesting and moderately priced in town, featuring new discoveries as well as more established labels. Katie Exton is a highly regarded sommelier, so seeking advice from her can bring rewards. 'Such a lovely place, it's difficult not to stay here all day,' concluded one happy diner.
