Le Cochon Aveugle
York, North Yorkshire
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‘Trust us,' says chef/patron Josh Overington about his multi-course tasting menu served four nights a week (and Saturday lunch) in this small but aspirational restaurant on Walmgate. And trust him you must, because while it’s an inventive, adventurous, exciting and loosely French-inspired menu – the name translates as 'blind pig' – there are no alternatives, no amendments, no vegetarians and no dietary options. This is increasingly the way of small, high-end restaurants who are juggling staff shortages and tight budgets. If you are up for the adventure, prepare to be impressed by the deep umami broth of apple and smoked eel, or the sweet/savoury hit of the boudin noir macaron, or an Orkney scallop cooked in its shell then opened theatrically at the table to reveal a fat bivalve in a puddle of sea urchin butter. The story continues through beef tartare with truffle, cod poached in chicken fat and the three desserts. There are wines to pair with every course or you can select from a list that starts at £34 and climbs, to include some especially interesting and unusual bottles and a good range of non-alcoholic drinks. It's all served in an intimate, informal dining room with tables of four, a ‘chef’s table’ in view of the open kitchen and a private dining room upstairs for six.
