Landgate Bistro
Rye, East Sussex
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A fittingly quaint old building for picture-perfect Rye, complete with original features including exposed beams and brickwork, given a suave modern twist via grey panelling and contemporary furniture. Chef-proprietor Martin Peacock has built his menu on classical French traditions and impeccable sourcing and there’s real creativity and originality on show here – so expect everything from a textbook chicken liver parfait to scallops with pickled cauliflower, chorizo crumble, cauliflower panna cotta and honey-roast pork belly. A recent test meal began with a mini salt cod fishcake with a perfect romesco sauce, some 'beautiful' focaccia (with a lovely oily, caramelised crust) and perfect agnolotti pasta filled with ceps and showered in finely grated Parmesan. A main course of guinea fowl in puff pastry served with white wine jus, carrots and confit potato was a showcase for great ingredients, accurately cooked, while a tarte tatin hit all the right buttons, with lovely light crisp pastry, just the right level of sweetness and a serving of thick, creamy Madagascan vanilla ice cream on the side. The international wine list offers a decent but not overlong selection, with accessible pricing.
