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Best Sunday Roast
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Lagom at Hackney Church Brew Co

London, Hackney - Modern British - Pub - ££

Open-flame cooking and 'hangover bowls' in a community pub

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

It's located under the railway arches near Hackney Central rather than an old church, but this ‘brewery pub’ makes a sporting effort to create the spirit of community among its large congregation of supporters. Nave-like beams arch above your head, seating is on refectory benches and, at one end of the room, the service counter could almost be mistaken for a high altar. The name Lagom is a Swedish word suggesting ‘just the right amount’ or ‘that'll do nicely’. Up-close open-flame cooking is the mood of the moment, and is executed here with impressive panache, whether for whole chickens, pork T-bones with apple mustard, lamb loin chops in green sauce or even seasonal vegetables. Expect grilled asparagus in lemon emulsion with charcoal oil in the late spring, beetroot carpaccio in molasses or leeks in romesco with smoked hazelnuts come winter. Chef-patron Elliot Cunningham has become the toast of east London for his smash burger, a consummate triumph ...

It's located under the railway arches near Hackney Central rather than an old church, but this ‘brewery pub’ makes a sporting effort to create the spirit of community among its large congregation of supporters. Nave-like beams arch above your head, seating is on refectory benches and, at one end of the room, the service counter could almost be mistaken for a high altar. The name Lagom is a Swedish word suggesting ‘just the right amount’ or ‘that'll do nicely’.

Up-close open-flame cooking is the mood of the moment, and is executed here with impressive panache, whether for whole chickens, pork T-bones with apple mustard, lamb loin chops in green sauce or even seasonal vegetables. Expect grilled asparagus in lemon emulsion with charcoal oil in the late spring, beetroot carpaccio in molasses or leeks in romesco with smoked hazelnuts come winter. Chef-patron Elliot Cunningham has become the toast of east London for his smash burger, a consummate triumph in which the elements of meat, mustard mayo, vinegar slaw and American cheese work together in perfect harmony. Lagom indeed.

Sunday roasts also receive enthusiastic support, not least the 'hangover bowl' – a plentiful cornucopia comprising offcuts of fired-up beef, chicken and pork, piled high on a bowl of roast potatoes and veg, before being topped with a Yorkshire pudding and ample brisket gravy (all for £12). Apparently, it's even better if you're not actually hungover. Whatever your order, try to leave space for a portion of the crispy potatoes with garlic mayo. Under the adjacent arch is the brewery itself, which turns out IPAs, lagers and pilsners to beat the band. Other drinks are available.

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VENUE DETAILS

16-17 Bohemia Place
Hackney
E8 1DUGB

020 3795 8295

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OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly

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