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Kota

Cornwall, Porthleven - Global - Restaurant with rooms - ££

Ingenious global flavours in a popular Cornish bolthole

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

On the harbour head in peaceable Porthleven, Kota feels every inch the rustic Cornish bolthole, with its red tiled floor, mutually reflecting mirrors and engaging, friendly staff. What lifts it out of the ordinary are the flavour combinations Jude Kereama brings to all of his dishes. With both Maori and Malaysian/Chinese heritage, he has an ingenious approach to seasoning and spicing, as well as an understanding of textural variation – and the results never seem to fall short. Eat from the carte or choose the six-course tasting menu, which offers similar dishes with apposite wine pairings (‘pure fine dining,’ according to one reader). Nibbles of smoked mackerel doughnuts or oysters with rhubarb vinegar set the tone, ahead of hand-dived scallops with turnip, apple, buttermilk and lovage or lemon sole with a rich coconut and lobster bisque, sea buckthorn and grapes. Meat also gets a look-in, be it pork belly with cauliflower, plum boshi and cabbage or beef with black g...

On the harbour head in peaceable Porthleven, Kota feels every inch the rustic Cornish bolthole, with its red tiled floor, mutually reflecting mirrors and engaging, friendly staff. What lifts it out of the ordinary are the flavour combinations Jude Kereama brings to all of his dishes. With both Maori and Malaysian/Chinese heritage, he has an ingenious approach to seasoning and spicing, as well as an understanding of textural variation – and the results never seem to fall short.

Eat from the carte or choose the six-course tasting menu, which offers similar dishes with apposite wine pairings (‘pure fine dining,’ according to one reader). Nibbles of smoked mackerel doughnuts or oysters with rhubarb vinegar set the tone, ahead of hand-dived scallops with turnip, apple, buttermilk and lovage or lemon sole with a rich coconut and lobster bisque, sea buckthorn and grapes. Meat also gets a look-in, be it pork belly with cauliflower, plum boshi and cabbage or beef with black garlic, maitake mushrooms and smoked potato.

Finish perhaps with sweet-savoury choux bun with Jerusalem artichoke ice cream, black-garlic caramel and truffle praline or baked cheese and hibiscus mayo accompanied by a rhubarb, raspberry and custard crumble. The 50-bin wine list favours Kereama's Kiwi birthplace, with Riesling allowed to demonstrate its food-friendly paces – either varietally or blended, acerbically dry or with the citric sweetness of late harvesting.

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VENUE DETAILS

Harbour Head
Porthleven
Cornwall
TR13 9JAGB

01326 562407

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Wheelchair access

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