Jöro
Sheffield, South Yorkshire
CONTINUE READING
Already a member? Log in here
Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.
The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 30 days
One of the best possible uses for a shipping container, Luke and Stacey Sherwood-French's darkly loveable restaurant is hunkered into Sheffield's ex-industrial heartland. A simple fit-out bats away any pretension – all is charcoal, including the sacks of artisan fuel standing ready to grill Thai sausage-stuffed chicken wings. You'll help yourself to cutlery from the big box on the table, allowing the staff space to communicate their deep in-house enthusiasm for the possibilities of flavour and texture. With no carte on offer, the generous tasting menus are well balanced and precise in almost all things, borrowing from the Japanese kitchen as well as making merry with British ingredients and European technique. The opening moments might feature a croustade brimming with Montgomery Cheddar and onions or a well-fired treacle roll with barley-miso butter, followed by silky, barely set chawanmushi custard popping with mussels and trout roe and topped with a decadent white wine sauce (why not?). Pearly North Sea cod dotted with wasabi has a chip-shop vibe with pale tempura-batter scraps added at the table, while the aforementioned stuffed chicken wings come with an inventive, intense sunflower-based satay sauce and juicy papaya salad. West Country venison, served with foraged mushrooms, squash with mandarin kosho and a liberal dousing of cep butter, is something to truly delight in, and puddings are a proper job: kaffir lime gives some Opal Fruit-sherbet zing to a mango parfait; chocolate tofu ice cream comes with a delicate coffee-bean oil, and an apple extravaganza (sponge, miso, custard) is the final hug. A carefully considered drinks list has something for the responsible fermentation enthusiast inside us all, while non-alcoholic options set the standard.
