Honey & Smoke
Fitzrovia, London
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The original Honey & Co has moved from Warren Street to a new home on Lamb's Conduit Street, but Honey & Smoke continues on its merry way. As the name suggests, this offshoot adds a fiery, smoky grill to proceedings, plying its trade in a big, buzzy, canteen-style space complete with tiled floors, plain square tables and plastic chairs. Run by an Israeli couple with Ottolenghi credentials, H&S opens its seasonal account with a colourful, inviting mix of Middle Eastern meze for sharing: pickles, creamy houmous, falafel with salad, labneh with charred hispi cabbage, all supported by Moroccan sourdough for dipping and scooping. Meanwhile, the grill delivers bigger plates of meat, fish and vegetables fired over coals – perhaps adana lamb kofta with grilled Romano peppers, seared sea bass on smoked San Marzano tomato salad or smoked aubergine with tahini and chilli/garlic dressing. As for the sweet stuff, top billing goes to the famed feta and honey cheesecake with almonds and blueberries on a kadaif pastry base. The wine list is tailored to the food and the seasons, with its compass firmly turned towards the Mediterranean; beers, cocktails and sherry complete the drinks offer.
