Heaneys
Cardiff, Glamorgan
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One of a rising tide of restaurants that take the starchiness out of high-end dining, Heaneys delivers devastatingly clever, technically adept food in a relaxed, vibey setting. No standing to attention here – just a pacey procession of ‘sublime’ taster-size dishes (although you can order a straight two or three courses at lunch if you prefer). The interior is uncluttered and modern, with a white-tiled bar on the rear mezzanine floor and a light, airy, street-facing dining area sporting green banquettes and modernist wood furniture. Next door, the Uisce bar is a good spot for pre-or post-dinner drinks. Tommy Heaney cooks like a man who’s learned the tune so perfectly he can now confidently riff on it. Expect plenty of imagination and interest built on a solid classical grounding: an opening dish simply billed as ‘cheese and onion’ was a crisp filo case with a fluffy, intense, cream cheese, onion, Parmesan and black olive filling after which ‘no quiche will ever be the same again’. A plump Carlingford oyster wore a veil of green herb oil, with fermented chilli and a dainty cucumber disc, while finely diced trout dressed with dashi, pickled mushrooms, soy and a twist of yuzu ‘struck a perfect balance: smoky, citrussy, fresh and bright.’ Next to such flourishes, a simple course of 'sourdough with Marmite' still held its own thanks to the perfection of caramel-crusted bread combined with whipped Marmite butter. The delights just kept on coming: an on-point, crispy-skinned helping of John Dory was paired with an airy buttermilk sauce, cod roe mousse, purple sprouting broccoli and chive oil, while melting, unctuous barbecue lamb and lamb neck harmonised beautifully with seasonal wild garlic purée, purple sprouting broccoli purée, crisped chard and fennel pollen. Desserts and sweet treats were also ‘dazzling’ – a much-elevated take on a Jaffa Cake featured chocolate mousse and a lip-smacking blood orange layer in a chocolate casing, while dainty and perfect helpings of mirabelle pâté de fruits, blueberry macarons and salted white-chocolate caramel fudge made a ‘perfect’ finale. A fairly substantial wine list covers Europe especially well, offering something for most tastes and pockets. Next door, the Uisce bar is a good spot for oysters, small plates and pre/post-prandial cocktails.
