Grey's
Easton Grey, Wiltshire
CONTINUE READING
Already a member? Log in here
Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.
The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 30 days
It may be the more relaxed dining option at this gloriously plush country house hotel, but Grey's still feels decidedly upscale, particularly in terms of what’s on the plate. Terracotta-tiled floors, blue banquettes and pale heritage-grey walls with glowing sconces fuse Parisian brasserie with country-house comfort and, in line with the more laid-back setting, the menu includes nibbles and a list of informal sides such as crisp potato wedges and chargrilled broccoli. But with executive chef Ricki Weston overseeing this menu (as well as the flagship Dining Room), you can expect the very best iterations of even the most informal-sounding dishes. A case in point is a creamy, perfectly garlicky houmous served with crispy chickpeas and tapioca crackers as a pre-starter, while sourdough comes crusty, fluffy and fresh from the oven with whipped butter and fragrant olive oil. Many dishes are classics, but there’s also real creativity here. A starter of confit Jerusalem artichoke with crispy skin and glazed hen of the wood mushrooms was a textural joy full of crunch and creaminess, while the mushrooms added extra weight and richness. Equally sophisticated was a main of Gigha halibut – a beautiful piece of fish, cooked just so and served on delectably sweet roasted parsnips in a luxurious mussel cream sauce topped with samphire. The Parisian vibe came to the fore in a winter dessert of classic Paris-Brest with spiced crème pâtissière, mincemeat and a festive Christmas ice cream flavoured with nutmeg, star anise and cinnamon. The wine list is a serious affair with truly global reach, while service is charming if a little too pacey.
