Gees
Oxford, Oxfordshire
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Following a major renovation early in 2022, this long-standing favourite of the north Oxford beau monde now has a heated garden terrace at the back and an adjacent art gallery-cum-private dining space (handy for wedding bashes). The essence of Gees, though, has always been its beautiful conservatory restaurant, converted from a greengrocer’s in 1985 and still under the same ownership. Globe lights dangle from the glass roof, while black-and-white tiled flooring and a convivial crowd of youngish locals add to the brasserie vibe – as does the catch-all Med-inspired menu. Crisp, thin-based pizzette with regularly changing toppings (including an inspired pairing of crunchy red onion with wobbly blobs of luscious bone marrow) are equally good as a first course or as a snack with drinks. Or you might start with tender chunks of Galician octopus in a powerful mojo rojo (with unadvertised potato). Moving on, the 'fish of the day' could be a little fillet of fresh mackerel matched with a wonderfully punchy anchovy and tomato salsa, otherwise dip into the selection of pastas – though our pappardelle with Chianti-braised oxtail and chestnut ragù was a mite under-seasoned. Sides such as kale with shallots provide the greenery, yet also bump up an already sizeable bill. To finish, puddings keep to the broadly Med theme; try the fig and brown-butter tart with moreish, chewy pastry (if it's available). However, Gees' main attraction is its happy hubbub, helped along by agreeable young staff and a drinks list comprising cocktails and a 30-strong selection of wines with southern Europe as the main player.
