Gather
Totnes, Devon
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At the lower end of steeply rising Fore Street, opposite the King William IV pub, Gather is a welcome addition to the Totnes dining scene. Founded on a culture of foraging ('Hedge, River, Field, Kitchen' is the stated itinerary), it offers an enterprising tasting menu of sea greens, leaves, mushrooms and flora (a particular lure on summer evenings), while the prix-fixe and its spin-offs deal in more mainstream modern dishes. A courgette flower stuffed with crab mousse in a silky, frothy bisque opened a lunch visit in fine style, its sliceable, neat construction a technical accomplishment. Next up was a roll of lamb saddle filled with nettles on a bacon-rich version of peas à la française. Simple veggie dishes might proceed from globe artichoke tortellini in broth to a tomato tart with herb cream, while fish fans could consider a serving of hake with fine beans on sauce Choron. It's all served by efficient, willing staff in a room of light wood, with half-curtaining against the street scene and a more ample, broad-hatched view of the kitchen. A short wine list looks to be at the development stage, although Champagne is represented by the very acceptable Gremillet.
