Four & Twenty

Penrith , Cumbria

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Rightly valued by locals who feel 'so lucky' to have this airy, family-run bistro on their doorstep, Four & Twenty is a true indie. In a Lakeland town, that means being something to everyone – which is accomplished by bringing local ingredients and good technique to every occasion. Consequently, a celebratory dinner with good-value matched wines looks just as 'seasonally superb' as a speedy (and terrific value) set lunch. The 'spectacular' signature Cheddar cheese soufflé, twice-baked and incredibly light, is a reliable way to start, or try a house-made pressed terrine of Cumbrian pork and chorizo (perfect with a glass of Penny Lane Pinot Noir from New Zealand). To follow, the 'attention to detail' that customers love sees smoked butter added to a pile of crushed potatoes in a dish of well-timed cod, summer vegetables and chive butter sauce, or some locally produced St James cheese added to the veggie lasagne (packed with wood-roasted peppers and spring vegetables). Everything is generously served, including desserts such as sticky toffee pudding or an airy upside-down strawberry cheesecake, scattered with shortbread crumbs and accompanied by a scoop of strawberry ripple ice cream; if that's too much to contemplate, coffee and (local) toffee might fit the bill.