Dinings SW3

Knightsbridge, London

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There aren't many settings more desirable than this: tucked at one end of an exclusive mews, Dinings sports a lovely courtyard (complete with a mature tree) for alfresco meals, plus a bright high-ceilinged dining room with a mezzanine, a bar at the front, a wooden fireplace at the far end, a marble sushi counter, and small wooden tables with tan-leather seating. The atmopshere is lively and it's topped off by chef/owner Masaki Sugisaki's innovative bite-sized Japanese dishes, which 'tease even the most well-travelled palate'. Sushi takes pride of place here: glistening hand-dived scallop nigiri pepped up with shiso, alongside first-rate hand-rolls such as smoked eel tamaki with cucumber and sweet soy. Elsewhere, 'excellent' grilled sea bass, which replaced turbot on the menu when we visited, came with asparagus and yuzu mayo. As expected with an SW3 postcode, the menu is pimped up with deluxe ingredients – a mini-burger filled with wagyu beef cleverly paired with teriyaki and spicy sesame aïoli, say, or agedashi tofu with three types of mushrooms ('packed with umami'). Less pricey items such as chargrilled asparagus with a dash of tahini miso and a 'superb' double-cooked aubergine with caramelised sweet miso are also treated with due respect. Yuzu cheesecake paired with a wild strawberry and shiso compote topped with hazelnut crumble is an enticing way to finish. Service is friendly and accommodating. Sake heads the expensive drinks list, with wines from £45.