CONTINUE READING

Already a member? Log in here

Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.

* indicates required

The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 2 weeks

Try for free

 

Cornus

London, Belgravia - Modern European - Restaurant - ££££

Virtuoso cooking with a rare degree of polish

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Joe Mercer-Nairne and David O'Connor (the duo behind Chelsea's much-lauded Medlar) recruited chef Gary Foulkes from Angler at the South Place Hotel with the aim of creating a smart, new destination venue in the traditionally less-than-inspiring neighbourhood between Belgravia and Victoria. The result is Cornus, located at the top of the Ice Factory development. Inside, the restaurant has been given a spare contemporary look, with minimalist decor, exposed lighting rails and a long marble-topped counter. A rare degree of polish transforms each dish into a virtuoso performance, and what arrives on the plate reliably exceeds expectations. An opening assemblage sets the tone: French tomatoes and Solliès figs with Ribblesdale soft goat's curd in fig-leaf vinaigrette offers bundles of savoury flavour and lactic tang, while pieces of chicken wing (intricately boned, stuffed and golden-roasted) arrive crisp and juicy, accompanied by a roasted chicken's heart, a powerful and silky mushr...

Joe Mercer-Nairne and David O'Connor (the duo behind Chelsea's much-lauded Medlar) recruited chef Gary Foulkes from Angler at the South Place Hotel with the aim of creating a smart, new destination venue in the traditionally less-than-inspiring neighbourhood between Belgravia and Victoria. The result is Cornus, located at the top of the Ice Factory development. Inside, the restaurant has been given a spare contemporary look, with minimalist decor, exposed lighting rails and a long marble-topped counter.

A rare degree of polish transforms each dish into a virtuoso performance, and what arrives on the plate reliably exceeds expectations. An opening assemblage sets the tone: French tomatoes and Solliès figs with Ribblesdale soft goat's curd in fig-leaf vinaigrette offers bundles of savoury flavour and lactic tang, while pieces of chicken wing (intricately boned, stuffed and golden-roasted) arrive crisp and juicy, accompanied by a roasted chicken's heart, a powerful and silky mushroom purée, plentiful truffle shavings and an intense jus gras-like dressing. Fish is nothing short of majestic, witness red mullet in a potently rich bisque embellished with a quenelle of precision-tuned salsa verde and a single saffron-tinted potato. Game cookery is also exemplary, as in a juicy-textured wild duck breast presented on a crimson bed of stewed red cabbage and radicchio, plus beetroot purée and a sauce pointed up with green peppercorns.

There has been some serious buzz around the pastry-chef, Kelly Cullen: should you need convincing, try her classic profiteroles filled with hazelnut ice cream and Chantilly, with hot chocolate sauce poured over at the table. For sheer quality and generosity, the three-course lunch deal (replete with incidentals) is tremendous value, and with Sussex Brut from Wiston Estate as the house fizz, the wine list makes its own statement of intent. Expect quality and imagination by the bushel, with glasses from £8.50 and extensive global reach among the premier-league bottles.

Read full reviewSee less

VENUE DETAILS

27c Eccleston Place
Belgravia
SW1W 9NFGB

020 7349 1900

Make a reservation

OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required

Latest articles